Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Boundaries Debate II - 19th September 2014 - Togher Community Centre

On the 19th September 2014 , the Blog held a second Boundaries Debate at the Togher Community Centre in Togher at 7.30 p.m. This was a follow on from the previous meeting which proved inconclusive and a revisit was decided on by all present. The purpose of the assembly was to fine tune that which had been discussed before , taking into account ecclesiastical , political and common historical connections. Attendees present on the night were Billy O'Brien ( hosting ) , Daniel O'Riordan , Kathleen O'Keeffe , James O'Brien , Teddy O'Riordan , Eamonn Pearse ( who prepared the event in advance ) with two special guests -  Alex O'Keeffe and Paul O'Keeffe ( Archaeologist ) - who contributed greatly as shall be mentioned later in the article. Appreciation is extended to Fergal Dennehy for booking the room and to the Caretaker ( name unknown ) who patiently waited until the meeting was finished at approximately 9.30. p.m.


Group photograph with special guest 
Archaelogist Paul O'Keeffe ( far right )


The debate began with a brief reiteration of the previous talk with a quick recap of the various factions and borders involved. As is known factually and historically speaking , Togher as a common law entity has existed in one form or another for many Centuries. It is perhaps not accurate to suggest that Togher did not officially exist until 1977 when it became a Catholic Parish in its own right. The fact remains , that even though it had been included in the old Civil Parish of St. Finbarrs and subsequently the Roman Catholic Parish of St. Finbarrs South and in 1890 the much reduced newer St. Finbarrs West Parish a.k.a. The Lough Parish ; it has always had its own identity and was well known and accepted. Even up to 1977 , as part of the Lough Parish ( and Togher people have a deep affinity with the body of water there , with the Togher Road beginning not far from its calm shores ) locals had no problem with identification as Togher. It is perhaps more worrying that later residents from out of town would carry that particular weight on their shoulders.


Trawling through the maps with some expert help


Long before any modern Suburbs or creation of new smaller Parishes , Togher itself was conceived of as painting a very broad canvas. And this was respected without any affront. Roads leading into Togher from as far afield as Friar's Walk were spoken of as Togher , though this may have been a colloquial way of explaining that a person was journeying towards Togher. It must be understood , that the area or region was still very much an agricultural hinterland even though so close to the City and that the land was fairly sparse when it came to actual houses.


Archaelogist Paul O'Keeffe , Kathleen O'Keeffe 
and Billy O'Brien


An important point was raised when looking at other Religious Faiths and their own drawing of boundaries. Of particular interest was the local Church of Ireland Parish of Frankfield , which takes in parts of Togher - Lehenagh Beg and Lehenagh More and extends right across to Douglas. Poignantly , this still does not detract from the Togher name. And of course there are other Faiths , Christian and Non-Christian which may have their own boundaries and titles. This will need further inquiry. All of this serves to remind any local historians that Religion is but one small , though important part of the story.


Daniel O'Riordan steering the 
debate along nicely in his own style


The Blog decided to begin with the boundaries as understood of the present day Catholic Parish and to flesh the territory out from this starting point. The official Catholic website is vague on the actual borders offering only a summary explanation and it was to Richard Henchion's book , " The Land Of The Finest Drop " that reference had to be made. In it , only the Northern portion of the Parish is described : " From Pouladuff Road , down Edward Walsh road ( all houses fronting on to same ) across Togher Road and through Sycamore Place , then up Hazel Road and across Cherry Tree Road and down towards Birch Place and Whitebeam Road and over towards Glasheen Bridge ".


Humour was mixed with the more serious topics


Even the Catholic Diocese maps are discretionary at best and do not show the southernmost portions of the Parishes. But it can be inferred from the cartography with comparisons made with modern aerial photography that the Boundary follows the course of the Glasheen River all the way around the Townlands of Deanrock , Doughcloyne , Garranedarragh , Chetwynd and right down to Knockalisheen from where it begins as a streamlet. Knockamallavoge had been in question , but because of its landlocked nature in relation to the other Townlands of Togher ( Knockalisheen to its South and Doughcloyne to its East ) and the natural feature of the Glasheen River , it was decided that it would have been incomprehensible and illogical for the Catholic Church not to include it as such.


Togher as a Catholic Parish as shown by Diocese


The journey around the region began again at the North , starting at the Pouladuff Road from the junction with Edward Walsh Road and continued South down the thoroughfare towards Pouladuff Crossroads at the Glenmore River by Lehenagh Beg and back up towards the Airport , using the Airport Road as a marker , but realistically citing the actual fast flowing waters of Glenmore as the flanks of the Lehenaghs. Passing Farmers Cross near the entrance to the Airport and further on for a few hundred yards the boundary extends across fields , dissecting the bottom half of the runway and right across the southern end of Gortagoulane to once more meet up with Knockalisheen. Even though Ballyphehane Parish lays claim to the Airport , the actual Terminals and Hotels and the northern potion of the runway fall within Lehenagh More , which is decidedly Togher District. Of course any contentious lobbying by parties is perhaps futile and at best relative , given the recent designation of boundaries by the Catholic Church. In conclusion , all lands within the aforementioned borders are Togher Parish/District.

Of course , as already stated , the modern boundaries were only one side of a double edged sword. Of particular relevance was the portion of land immediately North of the " Parish ". This would include the entirety of Ardmanning More Townland , which today houses Earlwood Estate and the now demolished Ardmanning House and Shopping Centre ( which during the 1970s was titled as Togher S.C. ). All territory West of the Pouladuff Road in Killeenreendowney has a Togher Address - Boston Park , Ardmanning Lawn , Ardmanning Avenue , all houses fronting onto the Togher Road ( locally known as Ardmanning Hill ) and all houses fronting ( on the West side ) onto the Pouladuff Road south of the junction with Pearse Road and thence south again to Pouladuff crossroads and back up the Airport Road ( more properly the Glenmore River ).


Cork City Local Electoral Districts showing 
Togher A ( white ) and Glasheen C 
( parts of Togher ) and Togher A ( greyed out )


One interesting motion was offered by Paul O'Keeffe as to Clashduff Townland being considered completely a part of Togher. However , historically this particular pocket of land has been de facto split between Togher and Glasheen. Even though there is no Glasheen Parish , the region has been mapped as a Suburb in its own right from earliest times. Thus the Western portion which buffers the Glasheen Road is recognised as an entity in its own right with the Eastern portion attributed to Togher , in its recent pre - Development phase known locally as " Ardmanning " ( Togher ) taking in parcels of Killeenreendowney West , certain parts of Clashduff and of course both Ardmanning Townlands. The Catholic Parish lines drawn to delineate Togher actually acknowledged this agreed boundary , making this and Killeenreendowney West the only 2 Townlands to have an historic division , perhaps harking back to more ancient sub divisions.


Determined territory of Togher


The Blog finalised the ongoing Issue with Address snobbery in regions of Doughcloyne and readily agreed that all were within not only Togher Parish but also within Togher District. These lands are not included in the official Wilton Parish which does not stray south of the Glasheen River and all lands therein carry a Togher Address.

Religion and Addresses notwithstanding , modern Political Divisions have thrown their hat into the arena with the quirky mapping of their Local Electoral districts , which amongst others see parts of Togher labelled as Glasheen. It was agreed that these are not official or commonly understood partitions of land and serve only as administrative areas and can be dismissed out of hand.

Paul O'Keeffe gave some great insights into what could reasonably be considered Togher , both in its status as a Parish and a District and advised on Townland boundaries as well as the southerly townlands of Knocknamallavoge ( not mentioned in the "Togher Past And Present " book but was determined as already stated as being in Togher Parish ) and Knockalisheen ( which is considered as Togher ).


 Final verdict being delivered on area 
of operations to be studied in future


A welcome tea break followed the intense discussions which were punctuated with dry humour  and indigenous patois which could only stem from Togher people. Some quick scanning duties for another project were completed and the group departed tired but more informed about the often thorny subject of lines on maps. Yet again , a rose by any other name ...


Example of An Tochar Causeway


In conclusion the idea of Togher has its roots in the ancient lands of the Ui Mhic Ceir who had their stronghold at Kilmohanoch marked for many Centuries by the Teampaleen ( Church and Graveyard ) located between Matthew Hill and Cros na Gol and the general area therein and can be argued to have existed in one form or another since the 3rd Century A.D. The fact that this vanished medieval town is no more is what makes it all the more tantalizing and is definitely something the Blog will be investigating in much greater detail next year. Terms encountered during research such as Maghy ( Plain ) and Toher Meddow are all the more intoxicating and should serve as primers for engendering more enthusiasm and gusto towards the mission of uncovering yet more of the districts misty past. It should also be pointed out that the Debate was important for a variety of reasons : One ; to actually discover the extent of the territory and Two ; to establish same for the purposes of a factually correct study area.

Saturday, September 27, 2014

7th Fieldwork Trip - 13th September 2014 - Corcoran's Bridge , Original Water Pump & Chetwynd House

Acting on the spur of the moment , Kathleen O'Keeffe ( acting as Driver ) and Billy O'Brien ( acting as photographer ) of the Togher Historical Association decided to do a tour d'horizon of Lehenaghmore and Chetwynd Townlands. Of course attempting to take in everything in a 2 hour session proved impossible so certain targets were discussed and agreed upon before setting off. The brilliant sunny weather aided in no small measure to ensuring a fantastic day jaunting around Togher's splendid hinterland.


 
 Liberty Stream flowing from Marsh 
towards Corcorans Bridge - Airport side


Liberty Stream entering Corcoran's Bridge
 - Airport side


First port of call was the roadway across from the North runway of Cork Airport. This particular bend carries the name of Corcorans Bridge and it was here that the day's activities began. The bridge is important for one main reason - it is the first man-made structure that the Liberty Stream passes under , on its downward journey to Togher Cross and then out to sea. Previous to any investigation , it was thought that the " Bridge " was simply a concrete pipe. But after clambering down to have a look , Billy O'Brien was delighted to report it was an actual bone fide bridge , with cut limestone blocks arranged in an arch with keystone in place and a block floor beneath to prevent erosion. Even though the stream technically begins a little further back as a rivulet from the exotically titled Cumar na dTrí nUisce or Meeting of the Three Waters , a natural spring which through underground pressure slowly empties the vast aquifer that lies beneath the Airport and surrounding lands and runs off in three different directions - West , South and North ( towards Togher ) , it is the marsh at the end of the Airport runway which is mostly looked on as its starting point. Replete with bull-rushes and furze bushes , this marsh slowly squeezes out its watery deposits which forms a pool in a gulley infested with water skaters and other small marine life before flowing under Corcoran's Bridge.


Corcoran's Bridge - Close Up 01 - Togher side


Corcoran's Bridge - Close Up 02 - Togher side


Corcoran's Bridge - Wide Angle - Togher side


Liberty Stream heading away from 
Corcoran's Bridge


Liberty Stream - stone escarpment - before descent


A failed attempt to abseil unaided down the opposite side of the road to have a closer look at the other side of the Bridge soon resulted in a frantic search for an alternative route. Turning a corner , the team found a spring loaded farm gate and lost no time in entering the field and trekking down to the stream's edge. Here the view that greeted them could only be described as breathtaking. The full grandeur of Corcoran's Bridge presented itself in all its glory for anybody who cared to see. Local rumour has it that two brothers of the titular name built the quaint structure , but whether they were farm labourers or stone masons is unknown. Suffice to say , the bridge must be of ancient origin , such is the quality of its stonework , which is sadly lacking today in this age of precast concrete and self assembly. Further down from the flow of water , there is a stone escarpment , which rather unnervingly leads the stream down a vertigo inducing drop of 400ft , progressively as it moves through the gradient which dips in 50 foot increments until it reaches Togher's second original stone arched bridge at Togher Cross , this particular one being all but made invisible by tarmac and overgrowth. It should also be noted that the stream takes its name - Liberty - from the old now defunct South Liberties of the County of the City of Cork. Kathleen also mentioned that a " second " Liberty Stream exists in a westerly direction from this location and may be a dis-tributary of the original ( this location will be visited soon ).


Original Water Pump and Enclosure 
- Doughcloyne Hill


Original elevated and stepped former 
Water Pump - Spur Cross


The teams next stop was to visit what is arguably Togher's last remaining authentic hand powered Water Pump. This now de-commissioned relic is housed inside a three walled enclosure just in off the road next to Joan Sexton's house on Doughcloyne Hill. Originally the hand operated pump had a plunger which when pulled up by the action of depressing the handle would create a vacuum , thus forcing well water to fill same and gush forth from the spout and into a waiting bucket. Another location at Spur Cross was visited which sported the same style of enclosure but with an elevated and stepped platform. Alas , only the base of the Water Pump remains today.


Marian House aka Hayesleigh near Cork Airport


Marion House was the next brief stop for a quick photo opportunity. This building has recently been renovated by its new owners. Originally this would have been called Haysleigh and even before that was known as Cruiskeen Lodge and is quite near the modern Airport.


Frontal View - Chetwynd House off Meaghers Lane


Of course no sojourn of Toghers wide open spaces would be complete without a visit to Chetwynd House. This is reached by traveling over a small stone railway bridge ( which the old Cork Bandon train would have traveled under before engaging with the famous Chetwynd Viaduct ) before driving down a steep road and turning in left to a narrow lane. This house was the seat of the Meaghers and it is from that name that the lane acquired its moniker.


Side View - Chetwynd House 
with later added single storey outhouse



Seperate Workhouse adjoining forecourt


Next on the agenda was the old Hegarty's House up Doughcloyne Hill ( the man of the house being a bus driver ) who subsequently sold up ( due in no small part to the fact that they had no running water and also because they were on the Corporation waiting list at the time ) and moved to Hazel road. This now abandoned quaint old structure now lies derelict and locked behind a metal gate and guarded by high stone walls.


Abandoned Hegarty House up Doughcloyne Hill


 Gated entrance to Hegarty House


A fleeting encounter was made with the Teampaleen , Cros na Gol aka Cros na Scoil and sundry others , but they will be the subject of a future visit such is the comprehensive history that is associated with them!

Thursday, September 25, 2014

Local Interviews - 04 - Kathleen O'Keeffe - Westside Estate , Togher

Jimmy & Margaret Roche 1940s

 


On Saturday the 13th September 2014 at 6.00 p.m. at her home in Westside Estate , Billy O'Brien had the pleasure of interviewing a Togher legend - Kathleen O'Keeffe. The meeting was poignant and long awaited for two reasons ; Kathleen is the wife of the late Tom O'Keeffe - author of " Togher , A Brief History " and " Togher , Past & Present " plus her family tree on the Maternal side in Togher extends through an unbroken line all the way back to the mid 19th Century.

Roche Family group photograph 
( Kathleen on right )


Her Grandfather , Michael O'Donovan was born in 1881 in Ashgrove , Togher and was a pupil of the old Cottage School ( now demolished ) located next to Muintir na Tire Cottage ( also demolished ) which has a family link as well. His occupation all his life was as a Horse Handler and he worked for the Hayes in the present Marion House ( previously called Hayseleigh ). Sadly he passed away at the ripe old age of 85 in 1966. One historical footnote worthy of mention , is that Michael was a cousin of the famous O'Donovan Rossa!


Michael O'Donovan's former home in Ashgrove


Kathleen with family and relations in 1960s
at her Communion ( left at Front ) - 
Michael O'Donovan on right
 

Her Mother , Margaret O'Donovan , was born in 1926 and attended the old National School ( Now Community Centre ) which had been built in 1891 to replace the over crowded Cottage School across the road. The land and adjoining playground had been donated free of charge by the Sarsfields , prominent local landowners , with a pedigree themselves stretching back over two Centuries. She married local man Jimmy Roche ( born 1919 in Doughcloyne ) in 1947 , a Farmer's Labourer who later turned Builder's Labourer to work on the future Deanrock Estate in the late 1960s!

Maggie Roche , Mossy Roche , unknown and Jimmy Roche
Early 1920s Doughcloyne


He also had a turn as Nightwatchman on the Estate with his hut located near the Devil's Rock ( The Citadel ) , where he possibly played as a child when the area was known as the Heighties and the shored up Glasheen River bore the title of the Rampart. Kathleen recalls visiting him by walking down the walled Summerstown Lane past the Workmens Houses and skirting Deanrock House itself , resplendent in its brightly painted hue of Yellow! Prior to that in the 1930s Jimmy had even helped to plant the trees leading into the now Palmbury Estate!

Jimmy and Margaret Roche 
1947


James & Kathleen Roche ( Grandparents )
 
 
Kathleen's Great Grandmother
( and one of her Aunts ) 1920s


Jimmy Roche and Margaret
Wedding Day 16th August 1947


 
Jimmy Roche with baby Seamus and Michael 1949


Jimmy Roche late 1960s

 
 Kathleen's Father , Jimmy was the nephew of Ciss , who was married to Paddy Ryan who won the National Sweepstakes , which saw him buy Lehenaghmore House in the 1930s and adjoining lands all  the way back to the present Togher Flyover near the Deanrock Pub. It was one of his new properties , Muintir na Tire which became the home of the Roches and saw the birth of Kathleen's brother in 1949 and sister in 1951. In the mid 1950s , the Family moved to Rochestown and a lodge where Jimmy worked on the farm for a while. But they were destined to return once more to Togher making Glenanaar in Lehenaghmore their new abode with baby Kathleen.


Kathleen outside her former home - Glenanaar


Kathleen and Grandfather Michael - Communion


Jimmy Roche also served his Country during the Second World War ( known as The Emergency in Ireland ) from 1939 to 1945 as a member of the Local Security Force or LSF. Though not armed as their successors the Local Defence Force or LDF ( forerunners to the F.C.A. and now R.D.F. ) were , they nevertheless played a vital part in security operations in Togher during those turbulent years acting as ad hoc Postmen , patrolling the neighbourhood and directing traffic. Jimmy along with many of his comrades who came from all parts of Togher and beyond was awarded the Emergency Medal and Ribbon upon being demobbed in 1945.


James Roche LSF with Medal and Ribbon


Kathleen Communion studio photo
 
 
Kathleen started her studies , like her Parents ( Mother - 1930s ; Father - 1920s ) and her Grandfather ( 1880s ) before her , in the Togher National School as Ireland entered the 1960s. However , with the start of a new Decade came the exciting prospect of a brand new school built on a pocket of private land adjacent to Muintir na Tire and the old Cottage School.


Kathleen's Confirmation Day


The Girls Principal of both the Old National School ( which with the transfer of the Girls became solely a Boy's School in 1961 ) and the new Girls National School was Ms. McCarthy. Another Teacher from those days was Mrs. Deasy. Besides the usual lessons learned at School during those days , the Girls also were instructed in Needle work , crocheting and occasional Cookery classes. To that end , Ms. Bridgit McCarthy from the Cork Gas Company paid a one off visit centred around safety in the use of gas while preparing culinary delights.


 
Kathleen in an Irish Stepdancing Class


Kathleen recalls that even with the new larger School , that overcrowding rapidly became a problem and to help combat this , the cloakroom was converted into a makeshift classroom! However , as the 1960s progressed and the influx of people settling in Togher in the newly built Estates grew exponentially , even the cloakroom became insufficient to meet their needs , and 3 Prefabs had to be brought on site to cope with the deluge.


Kathleen with neighbours ( left of doll )


Kathleen O'Keeffe and classmates outside home 1960s


L- R Marian O'Brien , Marie Roche , Kathleen Roche ,
Teresa Hayes , Eileen Crowley
In front Mary Hayes


Kathleen related how as a child one of their favourite games was sitting in the garden and making daisy chains besides scampering off to great adventures in the nearby fields with her friends. Other games would have included hop scotch , blind man's bluff and skipping. One abiding memory though wasn't so pleasant and that was the trek home from school under the Snotty Bridge particularly in the darkness of Winter time!  From walled up Lehenaghmore House right up to the ominous overpass , the trees on both sides arched over like skeletal phantoms and bathed the walk in perpetual twilight even during Summer. Children only breathed a collective sigh of relief once past this location and out into the open countryside again. There was also a makeshift dirt track on the right past the bridge which lead up to the railway track. To further worsen affairs for the local students making their tentative steps towards home was the prospect of strangers lurking above them as they passed under the Bridge! Indeed different dubious characters used to loiter about on the top of the railway track overlooking the road beneath! This dangerous location was made all the more safer when in 1977 it was finally demolished.



Kathleen with friend Marian Crowley 
up the African Missions lane

Another popular feature of Togher back in he 1960s was the Community Games , hosted in the neighbouring Coffey's Field ,which ran for the latter part of the decade and was eventually reinstated as the Togher Festival in the late 1970s and early 1980s , only to be discontinued thereafter. Many a future athlete had his or hers start on the turf that bordered the Tramore River as it wound its way past the hallowed grounds of Togher. Another venue which acted as an outlet for youthful pursuits was the Munitir na Tire , which organised outings , table tennis and activities of all kinds for kids and adults alike. It also became a meeting house for many local groups as well as serving as an impromptu Credit Union in its formative years.

Kathleen O'Keeffe as a teenager at rear of home early 1970s


Togher Sports Day - 1967 - Coffey's Field


Kathleen and Marian Crowley on wall 
of Liberty Stream near Greenwood Estate


Kathleen fondly recalls the emergence of the new Local Authority Estates and Private Developers Builds during the 1960s  especially those closer to home , such as Greenwood Estate ( built on land sold by her Grand Uncle Paddy Ryan ) , constructed in two phases , known locally as the Old Part and the New Part ( across from the now Community Centre ) . Indeed , her own father , Jimmy would go on to switch trades and assist in the building of Deanrock Estate in the late 1960s. Kathleen's Parents eventually lived out their lives in Sandown Crest.


Tom and Katheen O'Keeffe 
- Wedding Day 1975


Kathleen and Tom 1976


Kathleen would go on to work in Guy's Printing in 1969 off Patricks Street until she married Tom O'Keeffe - future local History Author in 1975 making Westside Estate her home in Togher in which she resides to this day. It is perhaps poignant to note , that with the graduation of her Daughter , Alex in 2014 - a link with all Togher Schools has finally been broken. A record had been set which saw members of the Family serving in the Cottage School , the old National School ( both as an integrated School and a Boys School ) , the old Girls National School and the new Boys and Girls National Schools - from 1880s to 2014 - crossing 3 Centuries!


Kathleen and Tom - Lourdes 2005


The Blog would like to thank Kathleen O'Keeffe and her family for being so generous with their time during the researching of this article. It is hoped that it will shine some more light on the past of Togher before and during its remarkable transformation from a rural agricultural community into one of Corks modern suburbs complete with its own traditions and those which have since been imported and made its own. Tribute must also be made to Tom O'Keeffe for his complete devotion to preserving the local history of Togher through his research and his books. Our eternal thanks ... TOGHER HISTORICAL ASSOC. & BLOG.