St. Bartholemew's Well - Doughcloyne

St. Bartholomew's Well - Tobar Phartholain

Partholan
*by Jim FitzPatrick

Togher for many centuries was the site of a renowned Holy Well located in the Townland of Doughcloyne. Ancient myth ascribes it and many others around Ireland bearing the name to Partholan who came to Ireland from Greece after the Great Flood. It was said that he possessed the gift of causing water to burst forth from the ground. However he and his followers all perished in a plague at Tara! Allied to this is the parallel association with the apostle Bartholomew which was a later connection during the transition from Paganism to Christianity.

St. Bartholomew
*by Rembrandt

St. Bartholomew's Well in Doughcloyne was located off the main road and was a natural spring which flowed out of slaty rock and more than likely flowed on to merge with the nearby Liberty stream. Holy Wells usually inherited their healing abilities due to the presence of certain minerals ( calcium , sulphates , magnesium and potassium ) in the water which could aid in curing ailments such as poor eyesight or tired limbs. The Well was in regular use as far back as the Middle Ages but fell out of use during the time of the Penal Laws. However in 1745 , a Dr. Barry had it restored to its former glory and thereafter scores of Catholics would flock to it on the Feast Day of St. Bartholomew on 24th of August. There they would indulge in a Patron or Pattern , which included praying and or bathing in the water before retiring to a nearby field for feasting and drinking after believing they had been cured of whatever troubled them.

Original book containing mention
of visit to St. Bartholomew's Well
in 1748

In 1748 two Englishmen paid a visit to the site and described it as follows: " We went this morning to that of St Bartholomew , which being the saint’s day , was surrounded by a vast crowd of Roman Catholics , some upon their knees at their devotions, and others walking with beads in their hands. The ceremony here is called a ‘Patron’. The well is enclosed with trees close to the side of the road and even the sight of it looks refreshing. When their devotions are done, they retire to several sutlers’ tents erected for that purpose , some to eat and drink , others to wrestling and yelling , dancing , noise and merriment , which bought on several boxing bouts whilst we staid there. " 

*A Tour Through Ireland by Two Englishman, 1748

In 1750 , a Frenchman known as Mr. Gallant was cured of blindness by bathing his eyes with the water. As a gesture of his gratitude , he had an avenue of Sycamore trees planted nearby and erected an arched wall over the well. It is said that around the same time , a Mr. David Fox had the use of his limbs restored after immersing his body in the water. The area soon became known as Bartlemy Well. Legend also has it that 20 years later a regiment of soldiers afflicted with scurvy after returning from foreign service who were camped nearby were cured after drinking from the well.

Charles Smith
1774

In 1774 Charles Smith wrote a detailed account:

" About two miles SSW from Cork, is a celebrated holy well, dedicated to St Bartholomew. The water gushes out from a slaty rock , through a round hole cut into it , about two feet in diameter , and one and a half feet deep ; it is walled and covered by an arch of stone ; there is an avenue of sycamore trees leading to the well. They relate stories of miraculous cures having been performed by this water , particularly on the person who planted the avenue , and whose name was Gallant, and who they say received his sight by the use of the water. There is a flag stone set up on which there is a cross with an inscription importing that David Fox got the use of his limbs by bathing in it. It is still much frequented on St Bartholomew’s Day , and the evening before , by an infinite number of Romish devotees , who flock to it out of devotion , and for the cure of sore eyes , pains in the limbs etc. It is a pleasant , sweet , soft water , lather immediately with soap , but I could not discover any other appearance , from whence it might receive its healing virtue. "

* Charles Smith , The Ancient and Present State of the County and City of Cork, 1774

St. Bartholomew's Well in 1842
*Note trench dug between Sycamore trees
to enable patrons to bathe

St. Bartholomew's Well in 1899
*Note railway embankment and absence of Well

The Catholic Church reacting to exaggerated claims of debauchery and merriment surrounding the Well moved to suppress its use but all to no avail. However in 1848 the building of the Cork Bandon Railway saw to its demise. The erection of a railway bridge ( still extant ) and the laying down of the permanent way saw the Well capped. Local myth says that a giant oak tree rose from the location of the Well in protest ( such a tree is in fact nearby! ). Even this did not detract the locals who still journeyed to the location every August up to the late 1950s.

Dirt track which leads off Railway bridge

Today St. Bartolomew's Well is no more and on the ground research shows no signs of its former glory. A tiny streamlet is found nearby which flows alongside the remains of the Railway embankment to join up with the Liberty stream ; ghostly traces of a former important aspect of local life and heritage which endured for so many centuries.

 

Railway bridge in Doughcloyne
*Well was originally situated to left of bridge

Tree which marks the spot of
St. Bartholomew's Well

Billy O'Brien Togher Historical Association
Doughcloyne railway bridge

*Streamlet ( R )  from St. Bartholomew's Well
merging with Liberty stream

Tales from the Henhouse

Mr. Denis Kelly a.k.a. Foxy Din

Between 1950 and 1969 , Mr. Denis Kelly was Headmaster of Togher National School. Up to 1961 , it also catered for girls before becoming a boys only school when the new purpose built girls school was constructed further down the road. Denis was affectionately known as " Foxy Din "  to the pupils and the schoolhouse he presided over gained the name of the " Henhouse ". The following memories are from that time period and represent the good , the bad and the ugly as told by the children who attended there.

Confirmation 1970
Last class of old National School

Anonymous: One bizarre incident occurred in the 1950s which revolved around a child having been chastised by a teacher. Fast forward a day later and a posse of men on horseback arrived at the school brandishing shotguns. The teachers quickly locked the doors before the men opened fire delivering several shots aimed at the door before retreating back over the old railway bridge and off into the sunset!

Ann Sisk: " I lived around the corner from the school , but was always last in ( not late ). One day in a hurry I ran off to school and realised I had forgotten to put on my knickers. I was about 6 years old. I was in the horrors and told the teacher. She was shocked , ( this was late 1950's ) and told me to stand out in the back ( this was a space between the two class rooms ). I was a small thing with all these eyes on me , so I ran home. My Mother was very protective of me being the only girl at the time. She put on my underwear and actually marched me down to the school. She called the teacher out so as not to upset the girls. I don't know what was said , but when Mum had gone , the teacher got my sack and turned it upside down. She took my beloved scrap book which was full from relations , told me to pick up my stuff and I wasn't going to see that book again! I didn't tell Mum as I felt I was a very bad girl.  But I cried inside when the girls were playing with theirs. I know this sounds silly , but as I got older I looked in secondhand bookshops for it..... "

Jim Hegarty: " I used to get away with murder. Flor Dullea knew my Father had been in the I.R.A. The Class of 1961 - ( see photo below ) remember when Russia were going to arm Cuba and HM Foxy Din had the map of the world on the wall and pointing out to us where the Russian ships were and how America were blockading their way . Close to WW3 until Russia turned around. President Kennedy never blinked. "

Class of 1961

Kathleen Roche : " I used to make a cup of coffee for the Teacher. I would walk slowly back to the classroom making sure not to spill any. I was so desperate to please her. "

Michael Plaice: " Went there from 1963-1971. Flor Dullea was head but had his sister Miss Dullea for junior and senior infants, then Ted Sullivan from 1st to 6th. We were in the new school I think just for a month or two before we finished in the summer of ‘71. Remember the coal fire in the room on the right, prefab round the back, small yard at the front. Remember Ted Sullivan got shingles one summer and came back in September with a beard. It was the first time I’d ever seen a man with a beard. "

 

CJ Forde: " I went there in 1970/71 then to the new school…Remember the coal fire and 6th class used to look after it and bring the tea pot around to the teachers …Think I was in the classroom on the right hand side. Remember Flor Dullea there and Ted Sullivan. "

 
Marian Bird: " I went to the pre fabs behind the centre in 1970/1971 remember trying to climb out the window cause I wanted to go home. My friend Geraldine McCarthy we started together. "

Wblj O'Sullivan : " We got a house transfer (remember those ads in the echo where both parties agreed irrelevant to the city council in city Hall) in 1970 from Bantry Park Road in the Northside to Black Water Grove in the NBA houses. Think our teacher was Mrs Cotter in that old school. Happy days before moving to New school Togher B.N.S. "

Dez Papazian : " I started my first 2 years of school there before moving to the new primary school. I remember the lady lighting the fire in the classroom in the morning. "

 

Frank Busteed - Kilmurriheen , Togher

This article uncovers the incredible story of Frank Busteed who fought in the War of Independence. A Togher man by birth his life was full of exceptional service to his country ( in which his name is linked to a famous ambush and an armored rolls royce known as the Moon Car ) but also marked by great sadness and tragedy.

Frank Busteed (1898-1974) 

Vice-Commandant, 6th Battalion, 1st Cork Brigade

Frank Busteed was born on 23rd September 1898 in the Townland of Kilmurriheen , Togher. His father Samuel Busteed ( whose own father John Busteed originally from Riverstick had married into the Bateman family/farm in Kilmurriheen circa mid 1860s thereby laying the foundations for the Busteed link with the Townland sadly dying only 20 years later ) was baptized Church of Ireland Protestant and from a strong Unionist background ( but later became Catholic ) while his mother Norah Condon Maher was Catholic and staunchly Nationalist. Their marriage had caused great scandal on both sides of the family , particularly with Samuel's mother Margaret ( She had converted to Catholicism along with most of her family and even went as far as learning Irish despite retaining a strong Unionist tradition. * Her son William refused to convert and emigrated to Australia with £300 given him by her ) who was the matriarchal head of the family farm in Togher. However events improved and Norah was welcomed into the family. 

 

Busteed property left above Peggy's Cross Roads

Tithe applotments map 1847 shows Plots 4 & 6
as in the hands of the Bateman family
into which John Busteed married

Site of old Busteed farmhouse
Kilmurriheen

Census 1901 Busteeds
Kilmurriheen , Togher

Census 1911 Busteeds
Kilmurriheen , Togher

Tragedy befell her however when in 1901 her husband Samuel died and she had also lost her child Timothy. She moved to Muskerry Terrace , Blarney ( where she worked in the local Blarney Woolen Mills ) with Frank and her other son Daniel , while her two eldest boys John aged 7 ( a.k.a. Jack  ) and William aged 5 ( a.k.a. Bill ) continued to live on the farm in Kilmurriheen under the care of their Grandmother. Frank would continue to spend summer holidays in Togher and developed a close relationship with his Grandmother. Likewise the boys would regularly visit their mother in Blarney.

Census 1901 Blarney
Frank , Mother & Daniel

Census 1911 Blarney
Frank , Mother & Daniel

Muskerry Tce , in the Townland of Monacnapa , Blarney

Muskerry Tce , Blarney

Frank's Grandmother Margaret as previously mentioned ran the farm in Togher with the help of 3 servants , John Curtin , Timothy Murphy and John Sullivan. Margaret was aged 60 in 1901 and along with her 2 young Grandchildren shared the house with her own children , Thomas aged 30 , Eliza aged 32 and Barbara aged 34 who undoubtedly assisted in the rearing of Jack and Bill. By 1911 , Thomas had moved away from home and Eliza aged 50 continued to live at the family home while Margaret's  other daughter Barbara now aged 40 and married to Edward Harrington also resided at the family home.

Frank aged 7 with friends at Blarney Castle circa 1905

Frank ( on right ) with Flying Column circa 1920

Frank attended his local National School in Blarney ( his one regret was never learning Irish which was not on the curriculum in those days ) and joined Fianna Eireann in 1910 ( He later recalled hearing an address in Cork City by Countess Markievicz in 1913. ) and the Irish Volunteers in 1917 , the same year his Grandmother Margaret died at the age of 76. The first person he met was Tomas McCurtain who took him under his wing. Meanwhile his two eldest brothers Jack and Bill had joined the British Army and fought in World War I. They continued to serve in the British Army upon returning to Ireland.

Frank with I.R.A. contemporaries 1921

The catalyst for Franks eventual complete involvement in the War of Independence occurred in 1917 when a visiting Irish-American priest hoisted a Tricolour atop Blarney Castle! This alerted the authorities in no time and soon the local R.I.C. arrived to arrest the priest. Frank who happened to be nearby fired a shot at the Police who promptly ran off. Frank and the priest made their departure but now he was known to the Authorities and under constant surveillance. 

Site of Dripsey Ambush at Godfrey's Cross

He went on to become Captain of Blarney Volunteer Company which eventually became part of the 6th Battallion , Cork No.1 Brigade under the command of Sean O'Hegarty. He would serve five months in Cork Gaol for carrying a weapon and collecting without a permit. He was heavily involved with the I.R.A. from 1919 on and this resulted in his mother's home being raided regularly. He served as a judge in the Republican Courts from 1920-1923. He was Vice Commandant of the 6th Battalion in 1920 ( with Jackie O'Leary of Rylane being his Commanding Officer )and Commandant of the attached Flying Column. Frank was involved in the burning of Blarney R.I.C. Barracks as well as others. In 1920 his mother's home was once more raided by 120 R.I.C. and Auxies. His brother Jack ( British Army ) had forewarned him and he escaped capture. His brother Daniel , whom he had grown up with in Blarney died of Spanish Flu. He had moved to Kilmurriheen in Togher where it was thought the country air would aid his recovery but sadly this was not to be. Frank's other brother Bill ( stationed with the British Army in Ballincollig since 1918 ) sometimes gave him guns and ammunition ; he would leave the British Army following the Truce. Frank saw action in the infamous Dripsey Ambush on 28th January 1921 in which he was overall commander. In Franks own words , it was a " debacle "! The British Crown Forces had been warned of the impending attack and members of the Manchester Regiment surprised the ambush party. Heavily outnumbered , it was decided to abort and the majority fled to the hills while some remained behind but due to superior numbers against them were forced to surrender. It subsequently transpired that the a local Loyalist woman Maria Lindsey had warned the British of the impending ambush and she was captured by the I.R.A. along with her driver James Clarke. She was to be used as barter for the release of the I.R.A. prisoners but the Authorities would not bargain and executed their prisoners. As a result she was shot as a spy along with her driver under the orders of Frank. Their bodies were buried in a bog near Rylane.

Maria Lindsay

The following night , Frank's mother's house was raided by Auxiliaries , R.I.C. and British Army. Four British officers interrogated her , ransacked her house and threw her belongings out into the street.  It is alleged she was also thrown down the stairs. She was left for dead and a local discovered her almost unconscious body on the street the next morning. By then her son Jack had arrived where his mother whispered for Frank. Sadly she died of heart failure and Frank had to attend her funeral in the family plot in Ballinaboy in disguise. ** Today the church is roofless and the graveyard is defunct. ** Witnesses later told Frank they had seen two British officers leaving the house laughing. Frank was summoned to Dublin by Micheal Collins to brief him on the tragic events. As an act of retaliation Frank Busteed ( along with others throughout the City  on 28th February 1921 ) set out at night with another young volunteer from the City holding a torch to shine on any soldier they encountered. The first couple they came to , the Volunteer shone his torch , and there was the Volunteer's sister with a soldier - that saved that soldier! The next soldier was not so lucky , the Volunteers hand holding the torch was shaking and he could not hold the beam steady on the soldier - Busteed had to shoot the soldier 4 times. They moved on , found another soldier and girl , and the soldier was shot. By now the other soldiers in the lane had started to run - Busteed pursued them , firing as he went. He says he wounded two of them, but that those men reached the barracks.

Major Geoffrey Lee Compton-Smith
( Portrait by Sir John Lavery -
Dublin City Gallery: The Hugh Lane )

Major Godfrey Lee Compton Smith in 1919 was commander of the British Army base at Ballyvonane, near Buttevant, but he was also an intelligence officer. He had served in France during World War I with his regiment the Royal Welsh Fusiliers and had fought at the Battle of Arras for which he received the Distinguished Service Order medal for gallantry. He had previously tried I.R.A. Volunteers for their involvement in an ambush for which he gave 6 months imprisonment. However other Officers who sat on Courts Martial doled out death penalties and at the time several Volunteers were awaiting their fate at the hands of the British Authorities. It was felt if a British Army Officer were held hostage that the sentences might be commuted. So a plan was put in place by Frank Busteed to capture Major Compton Smith as he stepped off a train in Blarney. Rumour had it that he was having an affair with a nurse. He was eventually brought to a farm in Donoughmore owned by Jack and Mary Moynihan. He was kept in a shed during the day under heavy guard and brought into the house at night to eat and stay by the fireside. One night they even had a singsong, and Compton-Smith joined in with a rebel song! He wrote several letters to family and a final one to his senior Officer in which he stated that he doesn't condemn the IRA but actually calls them idealists " who are doing what they earnestly believe to be right ". Eleven days later and following reports of I.R.A. executions , Compton Smiths fate was sealed. Frank Busteed ordered his immediate execution. He was lead to an already dug out grave and given one last cigarette. He boldly announced that when he dropped the cigarette , this was the signal to open fire. It wouldn't be until 1926 that his body was finally handed over to British Authorities who carried his coffin back to Spike Island. His body was then taken to Carlisle Fort, near Whitegate, where it was buried with full military honours. The inscription on a bronze wreath which was put in place by his Daughter in August 1927 read " With Love , From Anne " It would appear that his wife may have known of his affair and stayed away. It is incredible to think that he had sympathy for his captors and for their cause at large. He had displayed great bravery at the time of his death even handing his watch over to his executioners. A sad tale but one which was of its time.

Moynihan house today at Barrahaurin, Donoughmore

Daughter Anne at grave August 1927

 
The Truce came into effect on July 1921 and Frank promptly broke it when he learned of his Mother's attackers whereabouts. His brother Bill had specifically rejoined the British Army to gain intelligence on his mothers attackers which he passed on to Frank. Four British Army officers in plain clothes left Ballincollig Barracks and were duly captured by Frank and later executed.

The " Moon Car "
so called because it was only used at night!

The " Moon Car " with mounted Lewis Guns

The Civil War began on the 26th June 1922 and Frank Busteed was made Commandant of the Sixth Battalion, Cork No.1 Brigade fighting on the Anti-Treaty side. He saw combat in many skirmishes and had held out against Free State soldiers in PassageWest , Rochestown and Douglas during the Battle for Cork in August 1922. In March 1923 , he had a narrow escape when he and 2 of his compatriots Felix O'Doherty and Dan Horgan were ambushed by Free State troops near Donoughmore. They were arrested but Frank bolted off into the woods with bullets flying all around him. Ironically , Dan would later join him in New York and become his business partner. However , eventually the Civil War came to an end and Frank along with many others continued to fight on. An historical incident occurred in 1924 when he and others pulled up in the famous " moon car " , a silver ghost Rolls Royce in Cobh which had been used by Cork No.1 Brigade and fitted out with armored plating and two Lewis guns and fired on a British ship which had just docked. This was a retaliation against the " Treaty Ports ". Frank and his comrades now had a price on their heads totaling £10,000! The car at the time sped away and was not discovered until recently where it has now been refurbished and reconditioned and displayed in the National Museum. It is valued at over €2,000,000!

£10,000 Reward Poster

Later in 1924 , the I.R.A. managed to get Frank out of Ireland and he ended up in Canada where he slept rough for some weeks before making his way on foot south to the United States where he was picked up by an I.R.A. car and traveled to Massachusetts to stay with his Aunt Mary , his mother Nora's sister. He later moved on to New York where he worked for an Italian ice-cutter. He quickly mastered the trade and set up his own company. It soon became highly profitable and expanded from Manhattan in to Queens where they crossed swords with the local Mafia. One worker refused to cross into Queens as he had been told he would be shot. It is rumored Frank dealt with the matter himself!

Frank's children

Fr. Frank , Ann & Noreen

Wedding Day 1926

Frank with family & friends
Long Island 1930

In 1925 , he met his future wife Anne Marren , an English woman from Lancashire. They married in 1926 and had three children , Frank jnr., Ann jnr. and Noreen. During his tenure in the United States , Frank along with many other former Comrades attended the annual ball of the Cork IRA Reserves held in New York in 1931. However in 1932 , Frank wished to return to Ireland. They left New York in 1933 and stayed firstly in Liverpool to be with Ann's family where the couple had a fourth child , Maureen. In 1934 , they finally returned to Cork where Frank got a job in an insurance company. He also became involved in local politics. In 1936 , he and his wife Anne were invited guests of the Lord Mayor , Sean French , for the reopening of the City Hall. He attended the 15th Anniversary of the Dripsey Ambush in 1938. He and his wife would go on to have three more children , Patricia Barbara , Kathleen and Nuala who sadly passed away as an infant in 1940. In 1938 , Frank along with his " Moon Car " comrades attended the handing back of the Treaty Ports.

Invitation to opening of City Hall 1936

Irish National Army 1941 - 1946

Volunteer Medals
( Frank would also have received
the Emergency Medal )

Frank Busteed with Tom Barry

In 1941 , Frank was commissioned into the National Army as a Lieutenant. He served throughout the Emergency until he retired in 1946. In 1953 , he became Manager of the Labour Exchange in Passage West until his eventual retirement in 1963 at the age of 65. He passed away in 1974 while his Wife Anne died in 1975. A life filled with great adventure and undeniable courage , bravery and service to his Nation. While a man of Blarney his roots lay in Togher and his name joins the Pantheon of heroes and heroines of the district with his name being forever part of Kilmurriheen and one of its most famous sons.

Frank & Anne 1964

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Acknowledgements:

 

irishvolunteers.org
landscapesofrevolution.com
www.historyireland.com

 Brian O'Donoghue

Frank Busteed’s grandson, Brian O’Donoghue, who holds a BA in History from UCC, has written his biography, published in 2022 as part of the Decade of Centenaries special edition of the Journal of the Blarney Historical Society , from which much of the detail in this article is derived. Additional research undertaken by Togher Historical Association.

Flashback to 1960s Lehenaghmore in Togher

The following photographs were submitted by Breeda Mitchell. They capture several scenes from Togher taken up Lehenaghmore Hill in the early 1960s. These never before seen images enable the viewer to see a Togher in all its glory before the modern developments of the mid 1960s. Life would soon change forever. But for now it is possible to share a glimpse of a very different Togher.

Unknown youths

 Mr. Crowley ( front )

L-R: Richie Crowley , Bernie Healy , 

Kathleen Crowley and Denis O'Leary (R.I.P )

L-R Back:  Mary Hayes ,Marie Roche ,Teresa Hayes

Front- Eileen Crowley , Marian O'Brien and Kathleen Roche

The 3 photographs shown above were taken outside the Crowley house not far from the home of Kathleen Roche. This was one of 2 sets of houses on this stretch of road. The houses thankfully are still in existence today.

Top L - R: Timmy Ahern , Mary Brosnan , Tim Joe Walsh
Middle L - R: Michael O'Donovan , Angela Crowley
Bottom L - R: Gobnait Walsh , Rosie Roche , Kathleen Rea

 Eugene Harrington R.I.P 2014

( formally of Ballygarvan )

Lehenaghmore

L - R: Kathleen Crowley , Mary Crowley, 
Mary Healy & Gobnait Walsh(Crowley )

Front L - R: Irene Forde , Breeda Mitchell (Healy) 
Mary Crowley , Eileen Crowley  
 Anne O Brien  , Gobnait Crowley 
Back L - R: Ted Rea , Richie Crowley?,  Mary Healy

John Kevin Sexton ( on right )
with friends

John Kevin Sexton , Tiger Ahern with friends

Photo taken in Bandon