Glasheen River ~ A Brief History of Drainage Schemes in Togher

While the Glasheen River has been in the news due to localized flooding over the last number of years , it may surprise some to know that it had been the focus and attention of Landlords in the 19th Century desperate to reclaim their land from the scourge of flooding. What may surprise some even more is that there are still remnants of the scheme they enacted! This article looks over the history of a bog which impacted on 4 of Togher's townlands and which still presents problems right up to modern times.

 

1655 Down Survey map of South Liberties
Showing Bogland surrounded by townlands ( see text below )

To fully understand the overall historical context of the subject under discussion , it is necessary to go back many centuries. After the last Ice Age ended circa 10,000 years ago , the resulting outwash from the melting of the glaciers brought to life myriad streams and lakes which in turn created a vast wetland or marsh especially as the climate warmed. However , even though our ancestors thrived in them , later invaders looked on them with disdain. Even the Down Survey of 1655 which mapped Ireland for the first time simply referred to the region north of Garrane Darragh , Doughcloyne , Deanrock & Clashduff ( southern portion ) as Bogg or Bogland ( denoted by " (b) " shown in map above ). Of course their only interest was in good quality agricultural land which could turn a profit. However the map is a priceless relic of an area which would cause so many headaches for future developers right up to the modern era!

1830s map showing Garrane Darragh & Doughcloyne
Note : No culverts or railway line

In the early part of the 19th Century the landlords of Garrane Darragh and Doughcloyne decided to take action and attempt to drain the northern portions of their lands. A plan was enacted to cut out 7 parallel channels ( see below ) with some adjacent feeder channels and divert any runoff from the marshland into the local Glasheen River. * It must be stated that this would have been done by a workforce using picks and shovels! They also diverted a local spring which emanated from Togher Cross to act as a conduit to help wick moisture away from the bog. To prevent the Glasheen River from taking water back or flooding they shored up the banks with roughly shaped slabs of stone which gave it a castellated appearance earning itself the nickname " The Ramparts ". 

Late 19th Century map showing Cork Macroom line
Note mini culverts and how close to Glasheen River the line runs

The age of railways encroached upon Togher in the 19th Century with the Cork Bandon line cutting through Garrane Darragh and Doughcloyne. However the later Cork Macroom line decided to traverse the 2 townlands boggy terrain directly. To enable the workers to lay down tracks , trees were first laid down and covered by stone to prevent the line from sinking. To overcome the obstacle of the various channels linked to the Glasheen River , 6 mini stone arched culverts ( see map above ) had to be built to carry the railway line across.

Example of typical stone arched mini culvert

As time wore on a new form of transport entered the arena and spelled the death of the Cork Macroom Direct Railway. C.I.E. , which was formed in 1945 introduced Togher to its first bus service in 1946. Less than 10 years later they were tearing up the Cork Macroom railway tracks circa 1953 with its close neighbour the Cork Bandon line being removed in 1961. It left a ghostly permanent way in its wake which quickly became the playground for countless children in the vicinity who reveled in the excitement and danger of the area. Numerous bog holes , streamlets and the Glasheen River itself were places of adventure where locals hunted for frogs and constructed small rafts on which to navigate the wetlands.

1990s constructed riverbed channel
Note : No mature treeline on embankment

However time waits for no man or boy and nothing stays the same forever. An idea first mooted in the 1950s was about to become a reality. A new National Road was to be laid down in lieu of the old Railway line. So it was that the Cork South Ring Road began construction in the early 1990s. The builders wisely chose to follow the old route of the Cork Macroom railway line. But to achieve this , first work had to commence on clearing the channels which had been cut out in the 19th Century. This also meant removing all the old stone culverts ( see above ). 

Newspaper account of objection to diverting of Glasheen River
Note : Photo shows original course of Glasheen River 
with its original mature treeline in background

Only 1 channel was allowed to remain based on the fact that it had a source back near Togher Cross which ran into the Glasheen River and can still be seen today. Perhaps the most incredible part of all the work of creating the Cork South Ring Road was the decision to move a portion of the Glasheen River further north to facilitate road widening. This met with much opposition from the residents north of the Glasheen River in Donscourt in the townland of Farrandahadore More. A new riverbed and embankment was dug out by heavy machinery to form a straighter course and a portion of the original route of the Glasheen River along with its original mature treeline was gone forever. This new portion is very much evident by the lack of mature trees on its banks when compared to the original sections it joins. The photo above shows that original section of the Glasheen River which is now gone forever.

Course of spring near Spur Hill to channel
adjacent to The Headlands

Course of spring alongside Sarsfield Lane

Treeline at top shows course of spring from Spur Hill
Treeline running at right angles shows channel 
which meets up with Glasheen River at bottom

Of course other natural features and man made solutions to the never ending problem of drainage enter the narrative as well. Firstly , a drainage pit was created during the construction of Garrane Darra housing complex. It is thought this was piped through to a natural stream which emanated from the bogland just south of the N40. In turn this stream was diverted back into the Glasheen River north of the N40 and under the Sarsfield Road Flyover. And just east of that is a natural boghole north of The Headlands. Added to all of this is the mysterious culvert which runs along the entrance to Elm Park. It consists of 2 entrance bridges. It is not known to date if this was again a modern drainage scheme.

Water Drainage pit installed during construction 
of Eagle Valley 1990s

Drainage pit near  The Headlands and Eagle Valley
Now heavily overgrown

Fenced off Boghole between Sarsfield Road Flyover 
and The Headlands

Channel under Sarsfield Flyover
diverting stream from nearby marsh

Culvert flowing into Glasheen River

Culvert alongside Elm Park

Elm Park channel

Garrane Darragh House

Gateway leading onto Garrane Darragh

Garrane Darragh townland has had human habitation going back well over a thousand years as evidenced by a large enclosure/burial mound ( still extant though heavily overgrown ) and a ring fort ( long gone ) . But this article will focus on the principal residence which bears its name - Garrane Darragh House.

 

 Garrane Darragh house 2015

Garranne Darragh townland has had a big house associated with it since at least the 1750s ( quite possibly even earlier ) and it is shown on the Taylor & Skinner maps of Ireland published in 1777. These were the road maps of their time and the first recorded attempt at making out in a crude form the various notable locations near the roads. Garrane Darragh house ( like most Big Houses of their time simply named after the Townland they were in ) today is boarded up and in a dilapidated condition. Its name in English is quite literally Grove of Oaks , though it is sometimes referred to simply as Garrane.

Griffiths Valuation 1852
1a/1b - entirety of Townland

Landlord - Wm Howe Hennis

 

The map above shows Griffiths Valuation of 1852 dividing the land into two parts , 1a and 1b , the division being taken up by the Cork Bandon railway line whch rented the land it passed through. Wm. Howe Hennis ( father of Francis Hennis ) , resident in England when land was first purchased was noted as the Landlord.

Garrane Darragh farmland 1987

( later Eagle Valley estate )
coutesy of Eamonn Pearse

Garrane Darragh house & outbuildings

 Garrane Darragh house 2015

It was for many centuries the one and only main residence of the Townland having three entrances off the main roads which bound it. The primary main entrance sported a gate lodge located south of the Glasheen River ( present day Woodhaven ) which was reached by the aptly named Garrane Lane which connected back to Bishopstown Road.

 

Red line showing Garrane Lane

which lead to old Lodge and onto house

 

 

Site of old lodge at bridge in Woodhaven
 

The second entrance was reached by traveling off Doughcloyne Hill through the lands of the Sarsfields. Photograph below shows modern day remnant of entrance located between Industrial Estate left of Sarsfield Road junction.

Entrance off Doughcloyne Hill

( between Industrial Unit & Houses )

to Garrane Darragh house

The third entrance was located near an old mill race off the turnpike on Bandon Road with a gatehouse which may also have doubled as a lodge of sorts see more here which is still in situ today though much run down and derelict. Evidence of an old bridge over the Glasheen River can still be seen though heavily overgrown. Today the entrance is to the left of the Garage off the Bandon Road.

Entrance off Bandon Road to old gatehouse

Gatehouse off Bandon Road
to Garrane Darragh house


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Garrane Darragh house - A virtual tour

Entrance off South Ring Road

 

 Bog to right of Entrance

 

 

Billy O'Brien pointing to front of House

 

Interior showing living room
 

 

Interior showing kitchen

 

 

Downstairs room

Staircase

Upstairs landing

 

Landing window

 

 

Bedroom with fireplace

 

 

Second bedroom with fireplace

Rear of house

 

Gate leading to Cork Bandon railway line

 

 

Original railway sleepers adapted as fences

 

More railway sleepers adapted as fences

 

Video around grounds of Garrane Darragh house

 

 

Between 1847 and 1864 Griffiths Valuations listed for the first time the actual value of properties in a given townland. It also listed the landowners , many of whom held the land in fee for many decades. It is also interesting to note that the Cork Bandon railway company rented the land their line ran through on an annual basis. In time the land would see another railway line cut though it , the Cork Macroom Direct Railway Company. Perhaps as a consequence of this encumbrance , the land changed hands several times.

Principal Owners

Mr. Carey Esq.

It has been the seat of many different families down through the years. The Taylor & Skinner 1777 map informs us that a Mr. Carey lived there. Little to nothing is known of him or his family.

Taylor & Skinner Road Map 1777

Peter Lee

In 1823 , the Tithe Applotment Books show a Peter Lee as owner/occupier of Garrane Darragh. So it would seem in the absence of any other documentation that he purchased the land from Mr. Carey Esq. or his descendants thereof.

Tithe Applotment book 1823 Page 01

Tithe Applotment book 1823 Page 02

Francis Hennis

It is quite likely that the Hennis' bought the land from the previous Lee owners shortly after 1823. This is proven by his inclusion in a newspaper of a prize awarded for breeding heifers ( see below ) in the 1830s. Francis Hennis married Jane Lloyd from Waterfall circa 1842. Sadly in 1843 the birth of their first child , a daughter , ended in tragedy , with the girl dying at birth. The following year , 1844 , saw the birth of a boy , who survived. Francis' father , William Howe Hennis had been killed in the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. Francis himself would go on to be appointed High Constable of the Barony of Cork in 1849. The couple would sell up in 1857 , possibly due to the Cork Bandon railway line running through their property since 1849 and the impending Cork Macroom railway line which was due to commence construction a few short years later circa 1863. Both lines would have bisected his lands and was most probably seen as a hindrance to the effective running of a farm.

Francis Hennis 1830s
Evidence of farm used for breeding heifers

Hennis marriage cert showing
incorrect spelling of Townland circa 1842

 

 

Francis Hennis - Griffiths Valuation 1847

Sale of farm & livestock 1857

Joseph McMullen

It again goes up for sale in 1895 by the McMullen family ( Church of Ireland ) who it can be deduced were the buyers back in 1857. So their tenure would have been 28 years. It would appear that Joseph McMullen's marriage to Maria Emma Pratt of Ballincollig was childless. They kept a servant , Annie Herlihy to run the house. Records show that the McMullens ,  in tandem with the Sarsfields , were instrumental in draining the lands they owned ( in 1890 ) with the help of the Glasheen River. This event marked the erection of the famous Ramparts at Deanrock. However by 1895 , they were set to quit Garrane Darragh and retired to Ovens , outside of Ballincollig.

 

J.W. McMullen

Marriage Cert 1887

Glasheen River drainage scheme 1890 

 

Selling up of business premises in Cork City

Sale of house 1895
* Bishopstown is the District Electoral Division
with Garrane Darragh being part of Togher

Michael Barratt

The 1901 and 1911 Censuses show Michael Barratt , Victualler as owner/occupier with live in Butchers and Apprentices. It would appear that the Barratts bought the land from the McMullens in 1895. Livestock kept on the land would have provided the raw materials for their trade. However , despite a level crossing on the lower Macroom line , it would seem like previous owners that the imposition of two railway lines through the farm made the prospect of once more selling on the land the only viable option.

Michael Barratt & Family

1901 Census

Michael Barratt & Family
1911 Census

T.O'Leary

It looks likely that by the 1950s , the Barratts had sold their interest to T.O'Leary of Munster Meats. T.O'Leary would possibly have farmed it up to the early 1980/90s. A poison notice appears in the local paper by O'Leary alongside one from the S.M.A. in 1960 to protect livestock from dogs etc. It is possible that they sold up circa 1990s/2000s and the grounds were leased out as a garden centre. The house is apparently in the hands of NAMA since circa 2010. It should be noted that all land south of the old Bandon railway line was uninhabited and had for a long time been the farming grounds of the Barrett's. Today , the land south of the old track is in the hands of the Sweetnam's.

 

Poison notice 1960s

* note: B'stown is old D.E.D.

**Since the 1990s the majority of the land has been taken over by Eagle Valley estate and the building now referred to locally as the Haunted House.**

 

Past Residents

** It must be remembered that all residents shown in the following Censuses would have worked for the Barratts and rented either the gatehouse off Bandon Road or the Lodge off Garrane Lane or perhaps lived in one of the outbuildings on site. **

1901

The 1901 Census shows a James Collins , Butcher with his wife Mary and baby Katherine as resident in the townland.

James Collins & Family

1901 Census

Cornelius Ryan , farm laborer also resided there with his wife Norah and baby Mary.

Cornelius Ryan & Family

1901 Census

1911

The 1911 Census differs in that it shows new families on site ; A young couple , John ( listed as a farm servant  ) and Hannah O'Driscoll with baby John J. So it is highly likely they lived in one of the cottages shown on the map.

John O'Driscoll & Family

1911 Census

Thomas Brien and his family are also listed with he being shown as a farm servant. His 3 children in common with others from the area would have attended Togher National School.

Thomas Brien & Family

1911 Census

** Until the 1926 Irish Census is made available , this article contains some speculation as to actual years of occupation by certain owners after the 1930s. **
 

 

Remnants of old dry stone wall
Present day Eagle Valley
Part of original entrance from Doughcloyne Hill

 

The above photo shows the remnants of an old dry stone wall which once sported a benchmark and lined the entire route from Doughcloyne right up to the Big House. Sadly the benchmark is long gone with the almost entire destruction of the wall. However traces of it can be found hidden in ditches and undergrowth along the road. As mentioned previously the Grove of Oaks still holds much of its past hidden in plain sight including a possible burial mound. Sadly an old Ring Fort was erased in the late 19th Century.

Acknowledgements

Eamonn Pearse
P. O'Donovan
W.A. Hill ( Research )