A Sign Of The Times - The Wilton Saga

In June 2016 , a subject of local controversy which had been quietly simmering for almost 40 years came bubbling to the surface and ran the whole gamut of emotions and both divided and united an entire community. The thorny question of " Wilton " was tackled head-on by the combined forces of the County Council , Togher Community Association and the Tidy Towns Committee. To this effect , a sign proclaiming "Welcome To Togher " was erected on Sarsfield Road. Grant funded and approved by the County Council , it was one of several sited around Togher in prominent locations. The Togher Historical Assoc. first became aware of them on social media. The Historical Assoc. had been approached for advice on citing of signs and offered suggestions for the outer boundaries of the district , including a finger post or elevated sign under the Sarsfield Flyover. However these suggestions were not taken on board with the bodies concerned deeming to showcase the signs in a more elaborate fashion. The following article will cover the subsequent narrative of the controversial sign on Sarsfield Road , the ensuing online satire , the Assoc's proof of boundaries and finalize with the actual location of Wilton. The blog also includes the radio debate on RED FM which is informative and highly entertaining.

Welcome To Togher sign erected by T.C.A./Tidy Towns

 Roadside view of sign on Sarsfield Road

May was a red letter day in a certain part of Togher which for the previous 40 years had gone under the rather dubious title of Wilton , much to the consternation of native locals in the area who knew it as Togher for generations. However , the subject , while discussed with amusement but never openly debated , finally came to a head in 2016. The sign denoting Togher was erected on Sarsfield Road opposite White Oaks and almost immediately attracted attention in the form of social commentary which quickly escalated into online debate which consisted of differing factions ; one group denouncing it and one group applauding it. Greatly simplified , some residents decided to launch a  door to door petition which it is believed petered out due to lack of interest. Local and National Politicians were approached for intervention. Online threats for its removal came to the fore and in June the sign became the target of several attacks. Firstly , the titular " Togher " both in English and Irish , was painted over in black , then papered over with a handwritten " Wilton " title ( no photo available ) and tragically culminated in the theft of the sign which was captured in progress by local Togher Boxing legend Paul Buttimer as he was passing by in his cab at 2 a.m.! Alas , he was with a fare and was unable to stop and apprehend the culprit.

Welcome To Togher Sign painted over

Theft in progress of sign

The Togher Community Assoc. and Tidy Towns decided not to press for legal action but instead appealed for the return of the stolen sign. However this was not to be and the sign remains at large though plans are in place to re-erect it again. It should be noted that a dangerous precedent was allowed pass in that Government Property was both vandalized and stolen , which is in and of itself a Criminal Act. What followed can only be described as bizarre and witty but on the whole highlighted the famous Togher wit. Social media became awash with humorous parodies while the printed media highlighted the series of events. Finally 2 Cork Radio Stations dedicated whole programs to the topic of social snobbery. Sadly 96FM had a technical fault and was unable to recover a copy of their show. Thankfully , RED FM released a podcast of the entire show which has been edited by Eamonn Pearse and can be listened to at the end of the page. Highly informative and extremely funny , it not only covered the topic of Togher , but branched out to the entire City which made listeners aware of just how endemic the problem actually is.

Posts without stolen sign

Turf War takes amusing turn

Local with makeshift replacement

 Online satire via social media

President Donald Trump appeals for return of sign

Missing Togher sign is literally out of this world!

It must be stated that many detractors did in fact agree to their inclusion in Togher R.C. Parish but strongly asserted their Address as part of the Wilton district. To put this into its proper perspective , it should be made clear that in the early 1970s , the S.M.A. who owned a large tract of the lands around Doughcloyne sold much of their holdings to a development Company known as Wilton Securities. Rather dubiously they marketed their new builds to prospective buyers as having the address of Wilton. The series of photos below highlight the historical and currents facts pertaining to the actual location of Wilton as opposed to Togher. In all cases , Wilton is located north of the Glasheen River. A 1950s Ratepayers list clearly shows Doughcloyne as being part of Togher. In 1983 , the Catholic Church established the Parish of Wilton. Notable by their absence are the Estates currently arguing the complete opposite. Running in tandem with this is the 2007 Bishopstown & Wilton Action Plan by City Council which notably does not stray south of the Glasheen River when portraying Wilton. A more modern day marker would be the Sarsfield Flyover which closely follows the Glasheen just north of it. Tangible proof can be discerned from the directional signage erected by the Council which clearly shows the true direction of Wilton ( north of the Sarsfield Flyover ) towards the C.U.H. and north of the Glasheen River.

1832 Holt Map showing Wilton above Glasheen 

River and Doughcloyne below

Documentary proof of Doughcloyne's Togher heritage

Diocesan website outlining boundaries of Wilton

Wilton Parish established in 1983

2007 Council Action Plan for Bishopstown & Wilton

 Wilton directional signage north of Sarsfield Flyover

 Close up view of true direction of Wilton

Motorway Signage pointing in right direction 
away from Doughcloyne

Finally , a local radio show hosted by Neil Prendeville of RED FM gave almost an hour air time to the topic of Wilton vs Togher. Many callers both for and against participated to showcase both their grievances and acceptance in equal measure. However , it soon became apparent that the whole case for Wilton was collapsing as listener after listener , many who hailed from outside districts argued in favour of Togher. Below is the whole show which is required listening and a history lesson to boot!

Audio file of Togher slot on RED FM

Murphys of Spur Hill

Pauline Murphy has informed the Togher Historical Assoc. of some remarkable structures in Togher which all have a Murphy/Spur Hill connection though the Families are not related. The first concerns her Father , Finbarr Murphy who lovingly painted and maintained a water pump on Maher's Lane which until recently was unknown to most. The pump , like its counterpart near the Sexton House , was walled on three sides and painted in flat green. As shown in the photo below , thought to date from the early 1990s , Finbarr was extremely proud of his charge. Today , it is believed to either be completely overgrown by vegetation and hidden from all but the most inquisitive of eyes or sadly possibly demolished. The second photo shows a 2009 shot of it , with the top of the water pump protruding from the overgrowth. Its location is just before the area where a gas pipeline was laid down not far from the railway bridge to the east of the Chetwynd Viaduct. The Togher Historical Assoc. paid a brief visit to the location but could not discover its whereabouts. It is planned to undertake a more exhaustive investigation in the near future. Pauline has kindly supplied a map outlining the original locations of all water pumps on Spur Hill.

Finbar Murphy posing beside water pump

2009 photo of location of water pump on Mahers Lane

Location of water pumps on Spur Hill

Pauline Murphy also informed the Blog of a stone which is hidden in plain sight at the junction of Sarsfield Road and Doughcloyne Hill. Her Father placed the stone there in the 1970s or 1980s as a marker for the Deanrock Bowling club from which to start their scores on Sunday mornings. Legend has it that her Father relocated it from excavation works being carried out on the old City Walls! The truth of this claim may never be known. The stone marker is nowadays several feet further in from its initial placement , having been pushed into the bushes by a car crash several years ago. Eamonn Pearse traveled to the location to capture some images of the stone as it is today.

Stone at junction of Sarsfield Road/Spur Hill

Zoomed out shot of stone marker in bushes

Close up of stone marker at corner of Sarsfield Road

Pauline also informed the Blog of an old Grotto halfway down Mahers Lane which was erected by the owners of the adjoining farmland. This particular Murphy Family , no relation , may have constructed the shrine in 1954 which was a Marian Year in the R.C. Religion. Kathleen O'Keeffe confirmed that she used to visit it in the early 1960s. Originally it would have had a statue and kneelers , but nowadays all have been removed and the site is slightly overgrown. Pauline has supplied a photo from the 1970s showing the shrine as it would have looked back then. Kathleen O'Keeffe photographed some close ups of the site as it is today.

 1970s photo of shrine/grotto on Mahers Lane

Modern photo taken by Pauline Murphy

 Photo by Kathleen O'Keeffe

Close up view of remnant

The Sextons of Doughcloyne

On 28th June 2017 , the Sexton House on Spur Hill was demolished to make way for a private build. The Sextons have a very important link with Togher history in that Maurice Sexton was the land steward for the Sarsfields up to 1947 when they sold their Estate to the S.M.A. and emigrated to Wales. Previous to that the Sextons lived in the rear portion of Phillipine House a.k.a. Fellowship House ( also demolished ). Fr. Slattery of the S.M.A.subleased the Cottage to Maurice Sexton in 1961 in advance of his retirement as Land Stewart , a position he retained when the African Missions became the new owners. The Larkins would have been the previous occupants of the Cottage. Joan Sexton was the last sibling of the family and passed away a few short years ago aged 90. With no surviving family members it fell into private ownership and is now gone forever. The site is also notable for the last remaining water pump in Togher which is located to the left of the entrance.

Maurice Sexton with Capt Sarsfield ( on right )

Former Sexton property outlined in red

Sexton House with roof removed

Sexton House reduced to rubble

Sexton House completely cleared

Last remaining water pump in Togher

Doughcloyne District Ratepayers Assoc. - Letter from 1955

Pauline Murphy of Spur Cross submitted the following archives to the Togher Historical Association. They afford a unique and intriguing insight into the past and are deserving of a special place in the local historical narrative. Dating to 24th August 1955 they consist of a 3 page handwritten letter penned by the secretary of the Doughcloyne District Ratepayers Assoc. to the County Council outlining the urgent need for the tarmaccing of the Doughcloyne Road ( possibly the Lehenaghmore Road by virtue of its proximity to the Liberty Stream ) due to flooding caused by extensive rainfall. Many country roads and lanes were still dirt tracks back in the 1950s.

 Letter Page 01

 

 Letter Page 02

 

 Letter Page 03

Also included is a 3 page list of actual Ratepayers. What is enlightening is the connection with Togher which copper-fastens many Townlands affiliation to the suburb. Also Lehenaghmore is stated as both Togher and Pouladuff , though the latter simply alludes to the road and not any cessation. Of course the Togher confirmation as stated and signed off on by the occupiers ( which included Doughcloyne , Lehenaghmore , Lehanaghbeg , Gortagoulane , Knockalisheen , Knocknamallavoge , Kilmurriheen & Chetwynd )  provides proof from a modern perspective of the historical claim of the region to which these Townlands truly belong. Of interest is Feirm Bawn which listed itself in the titular.

 Ratepayers List Page 01

  Ratepayers List Page 02

 Ratepayers List Page 02

Long's Farm - A Famous Photograph

Not many communities can boast of an iconic photograph which is widely known and associated with a particular region. Togher has just such a photograph. Published by the Evening Echo circa 1951 , the photographer ( unknown ) captured a harvest scene in Togher Farm , owned and operated by the Long Family. The head of the household - Patrick Long , first purchased the farm back in the early 1920s and for the next 4 decades together with his wife , Hannah and their children worked the land right up until a compulsory purchase order was placed on their farm circa 1961 and they had to sell.

Long's Farm , Togher circa early 1950s

Eddie Long ( 2nd from left ) , 

Claire Long ( holding teapot ) 

& Denis O'Leary ( 2nd from right )

They say a picture paints a thousand words , but a photograph reveals a million facts. The famous harvest scene shows Togher as it was almost 70 years ago. Back then , as can be seen in the shot , the main Togher Road was a very narrow affair , walled and hedged for much of its length right down to Togher Cross. Togher then was composed primarily of small farms and market gardens ; Togher Farm a.k.a. Long's Farm was both! As can be seen , the house on the brow of the hill is one part of a semi-detached house belonging to the O'Driscolls. Their neighbor , Kerrs , ran a small dairy farm. Both houses are still there today. The Long's house was out of shot and was sited a little further south and was near Ardmanning Cottages ( now also gone ) Ironically , the Long's new abode would be sited directly across the road from the Kerrs/Russell homesteads in the early 1960s.

Ardmanning Cottages which were just below 

Long's House on Togher Road circa 1961

The photograph shows 2 members of the Long Family : Eddie Long ( 2nd from left ) whose Niece - Therese Murphy - remembers as a gentle giant of a man who was reserved and mild mannered. The girl holding the Teapot was his sister - Claire Long. The man ( 2nd from right ) has since been identified as Denis O'Leary ( see below ) . Many farmers back then would have hired casual laborers during harvest time. The photo displayed here shows the old scene in a modern setting. Many thanks to Eamonn Pearse for his research into the positioning and overlaying of the photo and to Kathleen O'Keeffe for providing the photo of Denis O'Leary.

Old photograph overlaid on modern setting

Denis O'Leary ( seen in old photo 2nd from right )

The Long's story is peppered with sadness , not least the tragedy of losing their Farm and Home , which broke the heart of Patrick Long. Eddie moved into the new house on Earlwood Estate , next to the Ardmanning House along with his siblings. Born in the 1920s , he never married and died relatively young in the 1970s. His sister , Claire , married but had no children , and now lives in the house. Sadly she suffers from dementia. She is currently 86 years old.

Kerrs/O'Driscoll Houses ( 2 story semi-detached building )
Only remaining artifact from old photograph 

The Kerrs/O'Driscolls house ( shown above in its modern setting ) as featured in the famous photograph is still standing and remains the only relic of the 1950s harvest scene still intact. The other row of adjacent bungalows are thought to have been erected in the late 1950s on privately bought plots of small land. The famous photograph is on display in several locations , most notably the Lough Credit Union , Togher Branch , but what is less well known , is it's display in West Gate nursing home in Ballincollig , which Billy O'Brien discovered completely by accident ( see below ).

West Gate nursing home , Ballincollig , Co. Cork

21st Fieldwork Trip - 3rd June 2017 - Green Shield Stamps , Big Houses and A Bridge Too Far

On Saturday June 3rd 2017 , the Togher Historical Assoc. undertook its first Fieldwork Trip of the year with several goals in mind. Eamonn Pearse and Billy O'Brien were joined by historical enthusiast Eamonn Twomey and set off in search of green shield stamps , a couple of big houses and quite literally , a bridge too far. First appointment was at Edward Walsh Road to meet Anna Marie O'Shea in her home. The team literally paid a flying visit but nevertheless uncovered some priceless gems in the form of a sheet of Green Shield Stamps and an original Rent Book ( thought to be either attributed to an address at Shournagh Lawn or Argideen Lawn circa 1969 - Anna Marie's family home ). Also of historical interest was an old E.S.B. bill , possibly dating to the 1970s , which belonged to her Grandfather , who lived at Tramore Road. It is hoped to flesh out the Family history in the near future. The blog would like to thank Anna Marie for her warm welcome and look forward to a return visit.

Anna Marie with her Green Shield Stamps

E.S.B. bill ( possibly 1975 ) belonging to John O'Shea

Grandfather of Anna Marie O'Shea

Anna Marie - Communion 1973 - with her Father

Anna Marie with 1960s Corporation Rent Book

Next port of call was a return visit to Garrane Darragh house which was accessed from the car park at Bishops Court Shopping Centre. It was just over 3 years since the Historical Assoc. had last paid a visit and this was evident by the complete boarding up of the old abode. It was remarked by those present that the house bore an uncanny resemblance to the now sadly demolished Phillipine House over in Doughcloyne in that it is a double pitched construction. The grounds were once more investigated with a visit to the gate which would have originally lead into another field which was of old bisected by the railway track of the Cork Bandon line , which lives on in a reincarnated state as its former wooden sleeper beams are in situ as a fence.

Rear view of the boarded up Garrane Darragh house

Alternate view showing dilapidated outhouse

Gateway to former line of Cork Bandon Railway

An elevated view of the Grove of Oaks

Video of Garrane Darragh house and grounds

Phillipine House once more came calling and the group returned to the site of the former Fellowship House to view the progress. Thankfully 2 sides of the Orchard wall remain intact with foundations already in place for construction of various dwellings. A quick walkabout ensued in the ground directly beneath the site which resembled a field of gold ( see video below ). Eamonn Twomey was on hand with metal detector but sadly no buried treasure resulted from the search.

View of construction site at former Phillipine House

Field of Gold beneath Fellowship Site

Old rock hued treescape severely cut back

Alternate angle view of beautiful field

Possible elevation slab for water hand pump

Video of field of gold below Phillipine House

The group next set off for Chetwynd House , the former seat of the Meagher's in Togher. In fact the laneway off Maher's Lane is named after them. Time however was given to a brief stopover to photograph the Welcome To Togher signpost next to St. James Cemetery. From there it was homeward bound for what is now Togher's oldest house. The visit was videoed as shown below. Eamonn Twomey remarked about the positioing of an old gaslight about the doorway. Much speculation ensued as to the archway to the left of the door , now blocked up , which may have served as a possible coal bunker door. It was also noted that construction of private residences continues unabated , which now virtually surround the structure.

View of sign next to St. James Cemetery , Chetwynd

View towards Maher's Lane , Chetwynd , Togher

Video of Chetwynd House , Togher

 Angled view of Chetwynd House , Togher

New houses under construction near Chetwynd House

The team next moved swiftly onto Fernwood where the opportunity presented itself for 2 short video shoots of the Liberty Stream , which is piped under the access road there. Of note was the massive concrete pipe and two rounded slab stones which posed more questions than answers. The stream and foliage and birdsong were positively dreamlike at the location as evidenced by the videos shown below.

Video showing Liberty Stream near Fernwood

View of Liberty Stream as it passes former

Southern Fruit premises

Last port of call was an unintended date with destiny. Working on the premise of a childhood memory , Billy O'Brien donned wellington boots and stepped into the Liberty Stream by Coffey's Field and trod through the waters right up to the overhang by the new Turkish Barbers. What greeted the explorer was heart-stopping and reassuring all at the same time. The old stone arch bridge which up to the late 1970s could be viewed from the entrance to Greenwood Estate was in plain view , albeit hidden from modern day eyes , by virtue of an extended overhang constructed late 1990s to meet with the new precast concrete gully walls which replaced the former banks and riverbed. The approach to the overhang is an eerie experience , where the unwary needs to tred carefully in light of the muddy deposition. A series of circular cement buffers flank the overflow runnel and newly expanded concrete floor. The right side of the old stone bridge has been rendered with cement and the entire painted white. The additional overhang slab can be viewed from beneath and is clearly visible , being placed on top of the old shorter slab , which in days gone by acted as a foundation for a pump house.This now confirms that the stretch of road from the Community Centre to Togher Cross is home to 3 Bridges all under the road! This concluded the Fieldwork Trip which proved to be both educational and enlightening for all concerned. The Blog would like to thank Eamonn Twomey for accompanying the group for the day and for his sheer enthusiasm for local history.

Video of trek to overhang in Liberty Stream
across from Community Centre

Video of return trek from overhang to Coffey's Field

 Close up view of old stone arched bridge

 View under overhang showing runnel

View of tunnel towards gully end