Sunday, June 29, 2014

Local Interviews - 01 - Father Billy Foley S.M.A. ret.

The first in what the Togher Historical Association hopes will become a frequent feature of the blog , this series actively seeks out and visits the homesteads of people who live in or have some strong association with Togher down through the decades. Their first local interview was with Father Billy Foley S.M.A. ret. at the Retirement Home in Wilton.


Fr. Billy Foley with Billy O'Brien - S.M.A. 
Retirement Home , Wilton


Eamonn Pearse and Fr. Billy Foley


On Tuesday 10th June 2014 at 7.20pm the Blog dispatched Billy O'Brien and Eamonn Pearse for a meeting with Fr. Billy Foley ret. at SMA Home Wilton. The colourful ex-Priest talked candidly and honestly about his life and about many facets of Togher from the past. A remarkable expose on the many dealings the S.M.A. undertook in the Togher region over many decades. Please click on the link below to hear the full unedited interview.


Fr. Billy Foley audio interview in full


After the recorded interview the Team accompanied Fr. Billy Foley to the Dining Room ( parts of this can be heard in the audio recording hence the echo ) where he commented on various photographs on the walls detailing the history of the S.M.A. over the years , some of which can be seen below.


Robert Zimmerman 
Swiss Founder of the S.M.A.


Montage of the Superiors of the S.M.A.


Centenary of the S.M.A. including Eamonn DeValera


Wilton Farm House ( illustration )
bought by the S.M.A. showing laborers


Aerial photograph showing S.M.A. building and 
field prior to construction of Wilton Shopping Centre


Fr. Billy Foley then invited the team to his private quarters for coffee where the discussion continued albeit of a private nature. A very insightful man with a great grasp of World Issues and local affairs he was not afraid to bear his soul and was extremely articulate whilst still remaining humble and down to earth. The team hope to return again in the near future. Before departing a stroll was undertaken around the grounds which can be seen below.


Rear grounds of the S.M.A. Retirement Home


Moonlit Garden Wall looking onto Togher


Private Road at rear of S.M.A. showing Eagle 
Valley and Togher Reservoir in the background



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Togher Historical Association meets the S.M.A.


It was with great sadness that the Blog has learned of the passing of Billy Foley at the Bons Secours Hospital on June 30th 2014. A very likeable , unassuming and amiable man , in the short time the Togher Historical Association knew him , he had left an indelible mark. Gratitude is extended to him for his time with the interview and the knowledge that was freely given. A Chara.
 
 
Fr. Billy Foley's grave
 

Saturday, May 24, 2014

5th Fieldwork Trip - May 23rd 2014

 Kathleen O'Keeffe and Eamonn Pearse 
Togher Historical Association


Whilst much of the Historical Association's work is done on the ground it's always a welcome reprieve to visit somebody's home for an interview or recollection of past events. Safe from the elements Billy O'Brien and Eamonn Pearse dispatched themselves post haste to Westside Estate for a follow up talk with Kathleen O'Keeffe. As the clock struck 7.40 p.m. the team were warmly received by the lady of the house and her two daughters , Aisling and Alex. Immediately it was down to business as many topics were discussed in quickfire succession. Kathleen's family links with Togher goes back many many generations and she has strong ties to the community at large and the local schools in general with an unbroken line of 4 generations attending Togher N.S. there! She remarked that her youngest daughter Alex , who would shortly be leaving Togher GNS would mean a broken line in local schooling for the first time stretching back almost 90 years!


Kathleen's Mothers Confirmation 
in Togher circa 1940s


The main topic of conversation centred on the thorny subject of Togher's boundaries and the incredulous claims made by some as to their actual addresses. These ranged from the sublime to the patently ridiculous and some of the rebuttals and advertisements made by locals and developers resulted in laughter and astonishment in equal measure. A pleasant follow on from the night's proceedings came from Kathleen's son Paul , who is a qualified Archeologist , in the form of a slew of emails outlining much of Togher's boundaries which included a couple of surprises and more than a few delights. This will indoubtedly form the cornerstone of the Society's Boundaries Debate in July 2014.


T. Lucey near old stone wall ( in front of Liberty 
Stream ) circa 1920s where the future Togher 
Church would be built


Mention was made of the old Deanrock House ( site of the now demolished N.B.A. flats ) and the fact that it was painted bright yellow. Also brought to life were the old workmens houses adjacent to the Big House which would have fronted onto Togher Road. Of course all of these would be demolished in 1968. The original entrance to Deanrock House was still intact up to a few years ago but can still resonably be traced today with a little detective work.


Locals with SMA father on Lehenaghmore Hill up 
from Green Patch circa 1960s 
L-R : D. & S. Crowley , H. O'Keeffe ( R.I.P. ) , 
K. Crowley , M. O' Keeffe , Mary Noonan. 
Front : Marion Crowley. Priest Unknown


It wasn't long before the Photo Albums made an appearance and were once again eagerly poured over by the team. This collection is priceless in that it includes many rare and unique gems showing Togher's past. It should be noted here that Kathleen was in one instance at least , the actual photographer as seen in this photo below which shows her Father on the left! Much talk ensued as to the length of the stream wall before the modern developments with Kathleen remarking it curved in off the roadside before the now entrance to the schools - the patch of land here being gifted to the local children of the old National School as a playground.


L-R : Jimmy Roche ( Kathleen's Father ) - 
Lehenaghmore , Willie Hourigan - Tramore Road ,
 Patsy McCarthy - Togher Road , and Tim Crowley 
- Tramore Road. Photograph taken by 
Kathleen O'Keeffe 1968


Update: Alex , daughter of Kathleen O'Keeffe  posing with a signed teeshirt marking her graduation from Togher GNS in late June 2014. Alex is the last in a line of 4 Generations who have attended Togher National Schools! A brilliant record and a sad end to this proud achievement which is perhaps unique in Togher.


Alex O'Keeffe - last in a line of 
4 generations of Togher School 
goers posing with her signed 
class teeshirt!

Friday, May 9, 2014

4th Fieldwork Trip - May 5th 2014

It was hard to believe but almost 7 months had elapsed since the Togher Historical Association had been on the ground and in the flesh! Such was the severity of the weather , that it had taken from October 2013 until May 2014 to continue the latest Fieldwork trip - this particular one being the 4th such endeavour. So it was that on Bank Holiday Monday , May 5th 2014 , that Billy O'Brien and Eamonn Pearse set off for pastures new or in this case very ancient. But first there was time for coffee and coronados at Whytes Centra at Togher Cross. It was here that the group happened upon the first of many surprises of the day. Stationed in the recess outside the entrance to the shop was a stone and cement plinth guarded on all sides by plastic bollards. They later learned that this was the foundation for a replica blacksmith's anvil which the Heritage Group had secured to honour the late nearby Forge which was sadly demolished in 1968. The anvil will make a welcome addition to the replica hand pump situated to its right , the original having been in situ up to 1968 near the present Vicar's Road. Thanks must go to Fergal Dennehy and Niall McCarthy of the Togher Community Assoc. and Mr. Whyte of Centra for their efforts in acknowledging Togher's past.


Concrete and stone plinth awaiting ye olde anvil 
commemorating the presence of the Forge on 
Togher Cross demolished 1968


Suitably refreshed and appropriately attired for the wet day that was in it , the Team began their foray into the misty past of Togher. First on the agenda was a stroll down the original private roadway of the Sarsfield Family. The road would have originally started on the right of the Lodge through the high iron gates , but today a short cut on the left of same gains access to the ancient pathway. Emerging into the tree lined parade , the team remarked on the age of this former carraige way , which in times past would have seen the residents in horse drawn buggys being carried to the Big House. Of course as the 20th Century dawned and the advent of Henry Ford in Cork City , the proud equestrians would have been replaced by a smarter horseless variety. It was also noted here that the pathway was trailed on both sides by gulleys - whether manmade or not was in question - suffice to say that the left ravine did appear to be natural as it carried a body of water which moved swiftly only to be terminated by a storm grill further on and fed off into an underground pipe to its immediate right - which was later learned lead off towards the Glasheen River. Much speculation was forthcoming as to this course being part of the original waterflow of the Liberty Stream before its diversion alongside the main Togher Road in the 1840s!



The start of the old pathway known variously as 
the Avenue or African Missions lane 
in more modern times


Eamonn Pearse walking with trepidation as the 
foliage starts to clear back from the pathway


If you listen carefully you can almost hear the 
ghostly clatter of horses hooves as the ancient 
trees call out to you


A much welcomed opening along the Avenue 
revealing Westbury Grove flanked by ancient trees


Could this be the famed original course of the 
Liberty Stream which in the 1830s flowed both 
into the Tramore and Glasheen Rivers


Coming out for air , the Team pause for a look at 
the old Togher hamlet where it all began 
many Centuries ago

The team then lost no time in boarding the trusty Historymobile to make its eventual way towards Forge Hill and the site of what has been termed the Old Tanning Cottage. This residence up to only a few years ago was the home of the O'Neill Family. 



 Interior view of the historymobile as it winds its 
way around the ancient environs of Togher

Today it is derelict and extremely overgrown with vegetation and quite impassable and should be noted that it serves as a physical marker for the beginning of Lehenagh Beg Townland. It should be remembered that the members wore safety boots with leggings and wet gear ( heavy gloves were also carried ) as some of the terrain encountered is dangerous.  

The Blog does not recommend undertaking any such venture whatsoever without proper supervision and also reserves the right to be non - accountable for the actions of others.
  
The sign which adorned the side of the Cottage was in remarkable contrast to the condition of the building. The original iron gate was still intact but like the remainder of the abode was covered in briars and brambles and overshot with trees and foliage which enmeshed it completely. Eamonn Pearse took the direct route in through the gateway whilst Billy O'Brien circled around on the roadway and entered from the side. The Cottage was extremely worn not only by the passage of time but by what appeared to be fire damage. It is barely viewable from the roadside and is well on its way to being returned to nature. The roof is exposed and the plasterboard and staircase are rotted rendering them unsafe to any footfall. The wind howled through the building the entire course of the visit. The sad demise of this residence serves only to enhance its value as a glimpse into the past when this area was home to a thriving Tanning business , so much so , that the nearby Glenmore River after passing by had its course altered to cater for the operation which was housed across the road where the now Celia's Showrooms and Scrapyard are located.


Concealed iron gate to old Tanning Cottage


The old Tanning Cottage aka Hill Rest


As seen from Pouladuff Road


As seen from Forge Hill


 This door kept banging open and shut


 (Un)Living Room interior shot


 Exposed roof interior shot


 Staircase to nowhere


 Sunlit interior wideangle shot


Ghostly remains of Hill Rest


Safely outside once more , as seen from the 
original location of Celia's Pub ( demolished 1999 )


The Glenmore River which passes to the left 
of the Cottage as viewed from Forge Hill


No time was left to ponder on the hillock near the river as the Team set off once more in search of a far bigger house. Garrane Darragh was firmly in the sites of the intrepid explorers as coordinates were entered and a course plotted for the next venture. The problem with Garrane Darragh house was that it was to all intents and purposes inaccessible. That is , until a break in the steel fence which surrounds it near Eagle Valley Estate was spotted! So with much trepidation and great anticipation , the duo set foot inside and boldly trudged their way towards the objective.


Billy O'Brien pointing the way towards the titular 
big house in Garrane Darragh Townland 

What greeted the pair was like something out of a ghost story. Shivers went down the spine as it felt as if they had somehow been transported back in time. The house even though in a ruinous state still gave some hint as to its past grandeur! Most of the ground thereabouts lay on a steep gradient and towards the bottom was marshy with many ancient oak trees all around. The house was quite run down and derelict as can be seen from the photos. A trackway which would have at one time lead off to the Lodge ( now demolished ) over as far as Woodhaven Estate across the South Ring Road was still partially visible to the left as you approached the house. This would have turned in left to a semi circular raised courtyard just outside the main entrance of the house , which was discernible up to a point. The main door was guarded by 4 metal pillars which stood like silent sentinels. Eamonn was first in and rather than meeting a bat out of hell was instead greeted to the pigeon from hell as it suddenly flew out disturbed by camera flashes and noise. What greeted the Team inside was a sad affair and only served to enhance the importance of recording the place before nature finally dealt its death blow.


Living room interior shot leading into 
hallway and kitchen


Badly decomposed staircase


 Upstairs landing showing exposed 
timber frames

 Bedroom with boarded up window and fireplace


 Badly rotted floor of second bedroom with fireplace 
and exposed beams


 Alcove barred window off staircase


 Remains of the kitchen with retro fitted floor units


 Drawing room downstairs interior shot

Once outside for some welcome fresh air , which was in stark contrast to the musty interior of the Big House , the team set about exploring the grounds. The House up to a few years ago was surrounded to the rear by a trio of workmens cottages and stables , all now gone. Eamonn , sharp eyed as ever , spotted a makeshift fence which lead into a side field - composed of the original sleepers rescued from the lifting of the Cork Bandon Railway track in 1961 with the tracks being sold to Nigeria and the trackbed being sold back to the local farmers. It was comforting to know that there was at least some visible reminder of the railways past in Togher! One of the original gateways into the Estate was also viewed to the steep rear of the house. This would have lead onto a private road ( now returned to nature ) which would have followed the Bandon railway track all the way back to Doughcloyne Hill. The area was replete with ancient Oak Trees which looked magnificent and splendid in equal measure. The gradient of the land lead down towards a marshy bogland full of reads and pondlife. The land was denuded of all turf reserves in 1950 and had served as pasture until very recently. A sad end  to a mysterious past. But sometime even ghosts talk!


 Original sleepers from closed Bandon line circa 1961


Close up view of remnants of Bandon railway track


 Original second gateway which lead off towards 
Doughcloyne Hill


 Steep Grove of Oaks which gives its name to 
the townland of Garrane Darragh


 Alternate view of lengthy access route to Big House


Marshy bogland at end of Estate

The team really enjoyed the 4th Fieldwork trip ; even though the rains continued unabated and the trekking and hacking through vegetation was wearisome , a great day was enjoyed by all. The Togher Historical Association will definitely be making a return trip in the near future. Before the event was brought to a close , Eamonn recorded a video for posterity as shown below. Enjoy!




UPDATE! : Whilst the last venture into Toghers dim and distant past was barely over , Eamonn was out and about the very next day in the trusty historymobile and happened upon a scene that had him racing towards it arms akimbo! The concrete and stone plinth mentioned at the start of the last quest had something new and even better somebody new! History never rests and so it was that Eamonn speechless , it should be added , took these snapshots of the anvil being placed into position by Mr. Pat O'Callaghan acting on behalf of the Heritage Group. Mention was made of the Historical Association which delighted the craftsman no end. Enjoy the historic photos of the latest tribute to Togher's past - an anvil representing the old Forge. Thanks again to Whyte's Centra and the Heritage Group for their efforts to date.


 First view of completion of construction 
on anvil tribute


Admiring glance at the work thus far


Pat O'Callaghan on a well earned ciggie break

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

The Lodge - Togher Cross

Perhaps one of Togher's more iconic landmarks is the Lodge located at Togher Cross. Built in 1820 to serve as a Gatekeepers house onto the Estate of the Sarsfields , it is constructed of limestone blocks. The Lodge served as the access point onto a Private Road which lead up to the Sarsfields Big House ( now converted to office usage ). This beautiful building has withstood the rigours of the Irish weather for close on two Centuries! It originally had two high walls either side of the structure with a gate and longer wall on its right side which extended to the now extinct stream wall on the corner. There was a small boundary wall on the left of the house which enclosed a garden. This wall sported a waterspout which disappeared in the 1960s. The roof was replaced in the 1930s by Marshall & Scully from Pouladuff Road who used to carry out all the Sarsfields maintenance work. An extension was added onto the west side in the 1940s.


Lough Harriers at Togher Cross 
by the Lodge circa 1923


The Lodge has been famous in days of yore for being the starting point for Bowling and as a meeting place for the Lough Harriers ; and in more modern times as the terminus for the number 14 Bus. The Togher bus pre - 1970s gave rise to a famous Cork saying : " Stay in by the walls and mind the buses " - made famous by a Cork Comedien. This was in reference to Togher's past when it was a long country road , walled for the most part along its route.


The Lodge as seen in modern times 
sans high walls and gate


The Lodge has seen many uses down the years : from a Gatekeepers House to a Private School ( Non- Denominational but fee - paying ) to Private Residence to Dental Clinic. It stopped being used as a Lodge in 1947 when Sarsfield sold his Estates to the S.M.A. and moved to England.


The Lodge circa 1940s with the Spillanes
Note original Gate and High Wall to right of building


Known Occupants as shown below:

1830s to 1849 - Private School
1849 - Riordans
1900 - Teddy O'Niell
1920 - Sextons
Late 1940s to 1999 - Spillanes ( Tom d. 1993 ; Hannah d. 1999 )
1999 to 2005 - Vacant
2005 - Dental Clinic