Kilmohonock - The Town That Vanished!

Ui Mc Ceir 12th Century

Norman Knight 12th Century

It may be difficult to comprehend but father time and mother nature can completely eradicate a former settlement bringing its very existence into doubt. Vague and ancient records however can betray a past which has almost been utterly erazed from history. One such town or village was thought to have been located in Lehenaghmore , Togher circa the 13th Century or perhaps even earlier. Its name is given as Kilmohonoc. It is the Town that vanished!

 

Illustration of typical Norman chapel 13th Century

Kilmohonoc , Togher ( Lehenaghmore )

 

 

Historians argue over the name and the location of the town in question. Some say it was named after a Saint Monoge but the various anglicisations of its title down through the centuries has only served to confuse. However the " Kil " lends credence to a church of some sort. So it would seem that the town and the chapel and its accompanying graveyard were closely allied to each other ; one not existing without the other. It can also be argued that the town owed its very existence to both the Ui Mc Ceir and the Normans!

Example of typical Norman village late 12th Century

It is thought that a trading post was in situ pre 10th Century built by the ruling Ui Mc Ceir near the border of the neighboring Ciarraigh Chuirche tribe. Following on from the initial invasion of Cork City by the Cambro-Normans ( who hailed from Wales ) in the 1170s , De Cogan and his entourage of Norman Knights soon laid plans for a manor or Fayd which would encompass the newly conquered lands. At the manors southern extremities , plans were put in force to construct a market town to enforce its new values on the people. An existing site Kilmohonock was picked to enhance its potential , being built at a crossroads and with a source of water. The houses and shops would be constructed of wood while a new chapel was to be made of cut limestone blocks with an adjoining cemetery. The chapel itself was the Teampellean ( which may have been a corruption of Olde Irish/English and simply implied " small temple " ) . However over time the name became forever associated with the adjoining graveyard. It would seem highly likely that this was the location of the old town , being geographically sited between two streams , the Liberty on its western flank and the Glenmore on its right , besides having a local spring in its grounds. De Cogan himself was killed in 1182 by the Irish when attempting to march on Waterford. He apparently suffered death by axe! His name survives in Cork to this day as Goggin.

 

Likely former location of Kilmohnock
19th Century map showing Lehenagh House

The town in question post Norman influence would have seen the Normans simply take ownership of the existing Tuath , in this case , the lands of the Ui Mc Ceir and establish a manor system there , the Manor of the Fayd or Plain of the Synod. Over time this would have morphed into the Civil Parish of St.Finbarrs. Of course another layer would have been grafted onto the area when in 1608 the County of the City of Cork was created which took in surrounding lands within a 3 mile radius of the City. This was abolished in 1840. However following the 2018 Boundary Extension the area under study was returned to the City. So it can be seen that the geographical ebb and flow of territory was quite frequent down through the centuries.

Location of Castle in neighbouring Townland
Knocknamallavoge ( * Note ring fort to north )

On establishing a market town on an already existing site , the Normans would have exerted their influence to the very borders of the enemy Irish. This provocative stance would have been backed up by military strength. A stone castle was erected in nearby Knocknamallvoge to impress upon the native Irish tribes that they were approaching Norman controlled terrritory. Over time though , undoubtedly the local Irish would have begun trading as a matter of preservation. And like the way of all things , the Normans would have settled down to a peaceful co-existence. The town , like any other Norman medieval settlement would have had exotic goods , such as spices , leatherwork and sweetmeats which were unavailable elsewhere. It should be stated that it was the Normans who introduced rabbits to Ireland for purposes of hunting. The town would have been home to bakers , blacksmiths, minstrels , jugglers , pickpockets and vagabonds.

Actual interior of a 12th Century Norman chapel

 

** It should be noted that as mentioned above a trading town had already been in situ since the pre-Norman days of the Ui Mc Ceir tribe who would have purposely built it on the border between the neighboring Ciarraighe Cuirche tribe. The Normans would have simply appropriated the existing settlement and upgraded it to their own design. This would have included constructing a chapel nearby , which possibly superseded an earlier wooden effort. Chapels were never built in isolation and this lends credence to the assumption that the town of Kilmohonac was originally situated at or about this area in Lehenaghmore. Whilst the Normans brazenly built in an open plan fashion with easily accessible routes in and and out of the town , the native Irish still preferred to live in a proliferation of " Ring Forts " dotted all over the nearby landscape , more for security from bandits and wolves. However , they would most certainly have traded with the Normans for cattle , food and other goods.

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Historical events/figures associated with Kilmohonock

1474 - The town of " Kilmahalok " was one of many in Cork and elsewhere which took to minting its own currency when the English money became so devalued in the late 15th Century as to become almost worthless. The practice was banned two years later by a statute of King Edward IV of England ( see below ) who sought that those responsible should be arrested and duly punished.

King Edward IV
National Portrait Gallery , London

1609 - The new County of the City of Cork was created by bringing in the townlands within a 3 mile radius of the City. This would have brought the market town , now part of the South Liberties , under the direct influence of the city merchants. It involved contributing to the maintenance of the City but also allowed them to send produce free of tolls into the City. This arrangement lasted until 1841 when the South Liberties were abolished and all townlands returned to the country.

Parish of St. Finbarris
L. Brown Collection

1615 - King James I ( see below ) sent an entourage to Killmohallok with instructions to name Richard Allen as curate of the Chapel and graveyard. It is believed that nearby Coolallen was named from him.

King James I

1649–1653 - The re-conquest of Ireland by Oliver Cromwell set in motion a terrible devastation upon the country at large ; there can be no doubt that Kilmohonok was no exception with its chapel reduced to rubble with the subsequent introduction of the Anglican faith. There can also be no doubt that the attached village would have been raised to the ground and its inhabitants slaughtered.

Oliver Cromwell 1653
by Dutch painter Peter Lely

Thus the death knell had been sounded and the trading town was no more , slowly left to rot and eventually disappear from local knowledge , save for its little graveyard and its former chapel now a mound of rubble overgrown with vegetation. Slowly these too would forever disappear. Vanished , just like the town which once existed nearby!

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Cros na Gol a.k.a.Green Patch
Lehenaghmore , Togher

To this day , the crossroads of Mathew Hill and Lehenaghmore Hill are known as the " Green Patch " , a term used by local bowling clubs for many decades past. However its original name is Cros na Gol or Place of Skulls and it was here where wailers would meet local funeral processions and escort them to the Teampellean for burial. Over time , this unconsecrated ground became the last resting place of unbaptised babies and waifs and strays. The early 1980s saw the building of private residences on the once hallowed ground and many ghostly stories are mentioned in connection with the site.

Fomer site of Teampellean ( left ) & Chapel/Kilmohonock ( right )

 

The Pillbox

For over 48 years a reinforced concrete pillbox stood guard as a lonely sentinel on Togher Road becoming part of the landscape and eventually finding its way into folklore. Sadly it met its demise in 1989.

Example of what the interior looked like

Example of manned Pillbox
© www.ferringhistorygroup.co.uk

During World War II , Ireland identified itself as neutral and so began " The Emergency ". Realizing the very real danger of invasion not just from Germany but also from neighboring Great Britain ( even the Big Houses dotted around Togher removed their townland names from their gates so as to confuse any enemy incursions ), it was decided to erect over 300 pillboxes nationwide in the effort to defend the land. These mass concrete structures were built in strategic locations to offset advancing enemy troops and were built exclusively for the use of the Local Security Forces. These were volunteers drawn from specific areas with good local knowledge of their neighborhoods and made up exclusively of men.

Looking north towards pillbox located to the left of cottages

The pillboxes were composed of metre thick walls with reinforced concrete and openings through which rifles or sub machine guns could fire. These " gun loops " also gave the sentry a good vantage point to view and fire on any enemy patrols. Togher's pillbox was like many others in Ireland built between 1940 and 1941. It was situated near the Liberty Stream to the right of the Muintir na Tire cottage and had a commanding view of Togher Cross. It's floor was earthen with a small entrance for the soldier to dash inside and return fire on the enemy.

William O'Brien with Grandchildren with pillbox behind

Brother Rudolf S.M.A. with Anthony O'Brien outside Pillbox

Dave Coughlin on top of Pillbox 1986

They were built primarily for the use of Local Defence Force personnel. They were initially unarmed but as the War escalated in Europe they were armed with rifles and conducted patrols throughout Togher and would undoubtedly have used the pillbox during their exercises. It cannot be overstated just how extreme the situation was. Great Britain had extensive maps of the Togher area showing all major routes into the City. Germany had plans devised in 1940 for the invasion of the South known as Operation Green.

James Roche of Doughcloyne , Togher

British War Office map of Togher 1940s

Men of Togher during The Emergency

So it can be seen that the Pillbox and the Local Security Force went hand in hand. With the end of the Emergency in 1946 , the men went back to their own lives and the Pillbox stood silent for another 43 years , its very purpose being forgotten and becoming a curious oddity for schoolchildren to play in. However in 1989 , it was demolished for a private build and was essentially erased from history. The sad fact is that nowadays , any surviving pillboxes in Ireland are now protected as listed buildings. Togher's sole pillbox survives only in the memories of children from the past and in these pages.

OS Map showing Pillbox 1949

Aerial Map showing Pillbox 1951
 

Present day location of former Pillbox

Beyond The Cutting III - Togher Road & Summerstown Lane

The " Beyond The Cutting " series continues with Mary Walsh's memoirs of Togher Road up to and including Summerstown Lane. A bygone age of hilarious characters and unforgettable experiences. When acknowledging past occupancy of any given area , it is all too often forgotten that many have called a place home going back not just decades but centuries!

1951 aerial view of Togher Road and Summerstown Road

** The photo above shows a different Togher in 1951 which would change vastly over the coming 2 decades. Togher Road is the main road which moves off at an angle from the bottom of the photo ; the sharp turn back to the left at the top takes you down Summerstown Lane , so named because it lead to the Glasheen River bridge and onto the Summerstown House. Also shown is the old Deanrock House ( often mistakenly labelled as Summerstown House on old OSi maps ) with its tree lined avenue leading in from Togher Road. This article will deal with the houses on both sides of this section of Togher Road up to the turn off down Summerstown Lane , the study area covering parts of 2 townlands ; Deanrock and Killeenreendowney. **

1964 graphic map of study area

Books of Survey & Distribution 1641 - 1703
as per Down Survey

The extract as shown the photo above is from the Books of Survey & Distribution ( which detailed the original owners and the people to whom they had to surrender their land in lieu of the Cromwell Confiscations ) in the 17th Century. Killeenreendowney occupies the lower right side of Togher Road up as far as modern day Willow Place ; thereafter both sides are Deanrock. As shown , Killeenreendowney was owned by George Gould and was forfeited to Alex. Piggott with Deanrock ( Carrigdigganig ) originally in the hands of the " Deanes of St. Finbarries " but would come into the ownership of Hanc Hamilton. Through sub leasing both before and after the confiscations of Cromwell , many other notable names would become attached to Deanrock , including the Goulds in the 1640s , Wm. Field in 1654 , the Barters and the Bretons in the 18th Century which seems to have survived to some degree into modern times. * However through the various land acts of the late 19th Century and early 20th Century , much of the land would fall into the hands of the tenants. The Religious Census of 1766 for the civil parish of St. Finbarrs lists the following : " St Finbar's, 176 Protestant and 745 Catholic households, and 919 Protestant and 3,452 Catholic people. No priest or friar. "

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The article will first deal with the houses on the left side of Togher Road from the corner of Barrs Lane and terminate at the turn off to Summerstown Lane.

1 : The first house on the corner of Togher Road ( junction of Barrs Lane ) was an oddity in that it was angled to the road in a diamond formation. This was the home of the Kearneys. Winnie Sullivan had married the head of the household ( first name unknown ) and they had 3 children ; Patricia , Eileen and Michael.

 

 

Kearneys as seen in 1971

Modern day Harleywood
 

 

2 : The next house belonged to Pete Sullivan , brother of  Winnie and he owned the Caravan Park. The caravan park is now long gone , with Harleywood being built there in the 2000s.

Sullivans house & Caravan Park 1971

 

 

Now Carrigdean medical centre

Deanrock Tce

Deanrock Tce. as shown on left side of Togher Road 1829

The 7 workmens houses which were attached to the large farm of Deanrock House were built circa 1840s by the Barter family. Thereafter their land was walled off up to and back down Summerstown Lane ( save for the lodge and entrance some yards previous to that to allow access to the big house. ) The occupants as of 1850 were as follows :

Margaret Carroll
Edward Joyce
Honoria Murphy
Mary Cottor
Michael Crowley
Margaret Downey
Thomas Healy

1841 map of *Deanrock House & Deanrock Tce.
( * Note : mistakenly named as Summerstown Hse. )
Also shown near Glasheen Bridge , several smaller holdings

1898 map of Deanrock House
showing lodge and smaller holdings ( in bold )

Judging by the topography of the maps above , it would seem that by the 1940s , 2 additional builds ( see map below ) had been grafted onto this side of Togher Road , with Kearneys on the corner of Barrs Lane but fronting onto Togher Road and Sullivans and their later caravan park ( the park being set up in the 1960s )

1949 map of Deanrock House and Tce
Also showing Kearney , Sullivan and additional
holding down Summerstown Lane

Deanrock Tce ( 7 houses ) 1971

1986 photo shows Deanrock Tce and O'Sullivan's coal shop
* Note : Caravan Park sign on opposite side of Togher Road
& entrance to Kelly's Lane near bus stop

Modern day aerial view of Deanrock Tce.
Showing 2 lots of 3 No. Townhouses
reducing the terrace to 4 houses
* Note : Harleywood in place of Kearneys
with Sullivan house ( now medical centre ) still in situ

View of last 4 remaining original houses
on Deanrock Tce

However the intervening century or so since then would have seen many families leaving and many arriving to set up home , some for short periods of time and others for much longer stays. The following list though by no means exhaustive is documented by Mary Walsh ( of The Cutting ) , Siobhan McCarthy ( of McCarthy market garden ) & Tom Ellis ( of No.2 Ardmanning Cottages ) and recalls family names from the 1950s and 1960s who dwelt in Deanrock Tce.

 

Mary Walsh ( The Cutting ) recalls some of the personalities of Deanrock Tce :

Goulds

Kellys - young daughter Marie

" Tommy Murphy lived in one of the houses on Deanrock Terrace. One day he ran out to save a child from an oncoming car and lost his leg in the accident. He would often ask Mary and her friends to go to the shop for a loaf of bread. His wife was known as Mrs. Bullog. "

" There was another character from Deanrock Terrace known as the " Runaway Duck! "

McCarthys

O'Sullivan's coal shop

O'Sullivan's coal & poppy shop 1980s

Soccer Pitch ( see below )

Early 1950s photo showing International Schoolboy Trials
in soccer pitch located below Deanrock House

Early 1950s photo shows soccer pitch
with wall lined boundary onto Togher Road

 

1953 match in soccer pitch
Present day Shournagh Lawn

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The following 3 families resided in small cottages at the entrance to Deanrock House

Plaice ( read more here! )

Walsh

Feeney

Deanrock House

O'Donnell - ran a dairy farm with a wide tree lined lane leading into it from Togher Road. Mary would often bring a tinny jug up there to collect buttermilk. A lodge would have originally been at the entrance when it was the " big house " of the Barters or Bretons. The road leading up to the house became known as O'Donnell's lane. In the late 1960s the house would be demolished to make way for the N.B.A. housing scheme , in this instance Owenacurra Court which was demolished in 2005 , with Shournagh Grove now in its place.. The present day Credit Union building is situated where the lodge would have been.

Deanrock House 1951
* Note : tree lined avenue

Lough credit Union , Togher Road
Site of old lodge

Prendergast - shared house with O'Donnell's.

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Togher Road

This section details some of the families remembered by Mary Walsh and Tom Ellis from the corner of Togher Road/Hangdog Road as far up as Carmelville. 

 

Post Office - Opened in 1966 and operated by lilly Sullivan , who lived with her brothers family on Hangdog Road. 

Togher Post Office 1970s
Postmistress Lily O'Sullivan

 

Now Dental practice and Pharmacy
 

Mulcahy - milkman.

McCarthy

Mulcahy & McCarthy 1971

Houses in modern times
Thought to be in private ownership

Jim McEvoy

Kavanaugh - coffin maker - He was always fighting with Pete Sullivan saying one day he'd make him his coffin! 

Jim McEvoy & Kavanaugh 1971

Modern day apartments

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Kellys Lane ( now Willow Place )

Kelly's Lane 1971
* Note 3 original cottages and market gardens

Willow Place ( aka Kelly's Lane )

* Now contains 7 cottages

Prendervilles - 1st on right , their garden bounced onto Tramore Road.The family consisted of Garry , Vincent , Patricia , Rose and Anna.

Kellys 1st on left ; the daughter was Norah , a good friend of Mary.

Hourigans

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Morans - Bernie Moran , English family who ran a school of motoring.

Morans 1971

Morans in modern times

Ronaynes - famous home in Togher known as Leaca ban.

Ronaynes 1971

Leaca Ban in modern times

Mr. Ronayne 1960s

Seanie O'Brien - market gardener , he used an old cottage for storing hay in which the Fitzgerald family once lived. Tom Ellis ( Ardmanning Cottages ) recalls : " Fitzgeralds later moved to Roger Casement Park , Glasheen. Nobody lived in the house afterwards. "

Seanie O'Briens 1971

Market Gardens housing estate

McCarthys - market garden ( still in use! ). Originally in 1852 the landlord was John Kelleher and the tenant was James Lavallen.

McCarthys 1971

McCarthys in modern times

Murphys - market garden ( read more here! )

Murphys 1971

Present day Deanvale housing estate

Sullivan - Jim & Julia and their 3 children ; Jim , Donie and Jer ( ambulance driver ). They later moved to Pouladuff Road. Deanwood Ave. was built on their land in 1962.

Jim & Julia Sullivan's land 1951

Present day Deanwood Avenue

O'Riordan - Carmelville - Mrs O'Riordan was a dressmaker , she made a coat for Mary when she was 11.

Rear of Carmelville 1971

Carmelville in modern times
One of Togher's few listed buildings

Pata Cronin and sister Bunny - moved to Pouladuff Road to make way for Vicars Road.

Site of Pata & Bunny Cronin's house in 1971
Vicar's Road now occupies their land

Sonas housing scheme now occupies
part of Pata & Bunny's land

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These are Siobhan Spillane's ( nee McCarthy ) original hand drawn maps showing residents of Togher Road which can be reconciled with Mary Cooney's ( nee Walsh ) recollections.

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Summerstown Lane

Summerstown Lane aka Heighties Lane 1968
* Note : construction of Clashduv Road to right

Summerstown Lane ( Walled section in background )
as seen from Togher Road in 1968

" Sh*t in the gallon " was a local character who lived off Summerstown Lane and kept an orchard. Of course many youths of the time felt the urge to keep up the old tradition of " slogging " apples , not so much for the illicit catch , but the thrill of the chase from the enraged owner! So vexed did he become as a result of one too many raids on his precious crop , that he took to literally throwing buckets of manure at those brave enough to encroach on his lands. And if he really lost the plot , he was also known for throwing it with his hand!

1951 aerial view of Sh*t in the Gallon house & orchard

Tom Ellis : " As you went down Summerstown Lane there were two gates to your left  ( about 600ft back from the Glasheen bridge ) which lead up to Coleman's and Donovan's. A tee junction also went up to two huge Houses. There were 3 families there :  Murphy’s , Reilly's and one unknown. The front of the house faced onto 2 soccer pitches and that lane took you out to Coakley's shop. Half way down that lane there was a rugby pitch. I think transport was the name of the team. "

 

EoinMcCreevy : " I remember going through there to the devils rock when we were young.the amount of families that used to go there in the summer with picnics , simple times mid late sixties. My memory was going for a walk on some Sundays during the summertime going through that lane and passing along side the ESB hut and ending up in this field with a big rock. A few families there and the children playing on the rock. Remember the cottage at summers town lane had the biggest sunflowers I ever saw ; still remember them. "

 

ESB hit or Gas Pump?
Halfway down Summerstown Lane on the right
 

Eoin Mohally : " The cottage was down the lane it was just after the entrance gate to the Heighties on the left hand side ; you could also get to the soccer pitch in the back from there ; i think it was the only cottage there. Bog on the right hand side , there was also a gas station ( It was concrete building and if my memory serves me well i think it had Cork Gas Consumers written on it ) , could have been for pumping. We used to cover our noses in case we get poisoned passing it right hand side. Had some fields when you went up the lane , great place to go in the summer when we were kids. "